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Routes in Stone Mountain South Face
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Adrift T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Amtrak T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Anchor Rode T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Another Alternative T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Autumn Speaks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Banana Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Between The Ways S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Block Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Blood On The Tracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Brown Sugar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Captain Crunch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Caveman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Closer to the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crystal Lizard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Direct Start to Arch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Discipline, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dixie Crystals T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dream Waves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Boobs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Entrance Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Face Value T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Fantastic T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Father Knows Best T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fleet Feet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grand Funk Railroad T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Brown Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hook and Bladder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Impossible Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Last Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mama's Goin' Crazy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Mcgrady's route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury's Lead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Alternative T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Orange Blossom Special T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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P.F. Flyers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pandora's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peer Pressure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Permission Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pulpit, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purple Daze T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Purring, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pyromania T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rainy Day Women T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Requiem to a Dream T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rice Krispies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Rock Island Line (Grand Funk alt. finish), The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Saturday Night Live T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scimitar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sermon, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Storm in a Teacup S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Strawberry Preserves T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Taken For Granite T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teflon Trip T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Toilet Bowl T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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U Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Wahoo Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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White Way Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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WOSL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Yardarm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zoo Love T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Sandy Fleming, Steve Pachman |
| Page Views: | 867 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Johnny O on Oct 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
Start on the slab between Grand Funk and Taken For Granite. Climb up to the the first bolt on the second pitch of Grand Funk. This is your first pro and is about 75' off the ground. Be very careful as this is 5.9/5.10 rock and a fall could be unhealthy. Leave the dike and climb straight up from the bolt to a set of double anchors below the dark head-wall.
The second pitch passes one bolt then heads right up into the dark streak of the head-wall. All of the rock in the head-wall is covered in vegetation and debris from the large amount of runoff. It would need to be properly cleaned before leading the head-wall. The second bolt is located near the top of the steep portion. This is an old bolt and was not replaced during the re-bolting effort by the CCC. Finish the pitch at the flake on the left or continue up to one last bolt.
Finish the route by climbing easy rock to the top. There are no anchors on the right side of the mountain so it may be necessary to belay from a tree on the tree island to the left. Come back down to the anchors on the pulpit, traverse left for anchors on the top, or walk off.
I have lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the head-wall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I made it about 10' or 15' past the first bolt on the second pitch and slipped. I don't generally fall so my belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. I have since gone back and top-roped the second pitch through the head-wall. It was more difficult than any of the other 5.10+ routes I have climbed at Stone. Hopefully, this will not be true once cleaned.
The second pitch passes one bolt then heads right up into the dark streak of the head-wall. All of the rock in the head-wall is covered in vegetation and debris from the large amount of runoff. It would need to be properly cleaned before leading the head-wall. The second bolt is located near the top of the steep portion. This is an old bolt and was not replaced during the re-bolting effort by the CCC. Finish the pitch at the flake on the left or continue up to one last bolt.
Finish the route by climbing easy rock to the top. There are no anchors on the right side of the mountain so it may be necessary to belay from a tree on the tree island to the left. Come back down to the anchors on the pulpit, traverse left for anchors on the top, or walk off.
I have lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the head-wall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I made it about 10' or 15' past the first bolt on the second pitch and slipped. I don't generally fall so my belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. I have since gone back and top-roped the second pitch through the head-wall. It was more difficult than any of the other 5.10+ routes I have climbed at Stone. Hopefully, this will not be true once cleaned.
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