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Routes in Willard
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Ad Astra Per Aspera T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Air to Spare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Austrian Economics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raging Waters WI3-4 |
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Southwest Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Ridge of the Ogre: Ogre Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Willard Canyon Waterfall T WI2-3 |
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Win Bigly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Troy Anderson, Pete Van Slooten, Alex Altman |
| Page Views: | 2,834 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | bus driver on Sep 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
Air to Spare is up a talus slope and is south-facing. Sun hits mid-morning most of the year I'd imagine. We climbed on a day that hit 97 in SLC and the route was pleasant and breezy. Not too hot but not much shade. The walk down got hotter and hotter.P1-bolts up arête. chain anchorP2- cams across an airy traverse to bolts and cam. Chain anchor.Optional roof crack (details anyone?)P3-cams and boltsOptional dihedral crack (details anyone?)P4-bolts and cams. Pro belay finger cams under roof.P5- Cams and bolt in crunchy corner on left. Chain anchor on slab above roof.Optional roof crack to face crack. (bail hex found in roof. Details anyone?)Descent:(Updated 4/21/19)3 x 100’ rappels is to the west into the talus gulley climbers left of the formation then walk down to the toe of the formation and the base of the route. The rappels will land you a little uphill from the prominent splitter crack on the opposite wall of the gulley called The descent anchors are completely separate from the route except the top anchor. Rapping the route would be difficult or impossible with one rope and is not recommended. The rappel stations are down to the west on ledges. One of them is just below a ramp. You may want to carry fresh webbing and links in case the tat needs to be replaced or backed up.
Location
Approach: Approach as for ice climbs and Ad Astra Per Aspera. Stay on the trail well past the formation and make one long jagged traverse back up below the lower cliffs and then up to the toe of the arête. Lots of other rock to look at this way too. After the steep hill, leave the trail at the only pine tree on the left or uphill side of the trail. Go up talus for one tier then up and left until you catch the end of a mining road. Follow this for a bit then turn right up more talus to steep dirt around the left end of the lower cliffband. Follow big solid talus up through trees and then left over to the toe of the arête and the start of the route. Some cairns are placed where the talus is fairly stable. A unified path will improve this approach. Dogs are allowed but the talus is pretty rough on them. Approach time 30-75 minutes.
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