Fistful of Steel
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jason Reuben, Mick Schein, Eric Whitbeck |
Page Views: | 1,209 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Sep 28, 2015 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Fistful of Steel is a sustained 5.10+ thin crack climb, a longer, harder, and headier version of the climbs like Rawhide and Yucca Flower Tower, which it is reminiscent of.
Rap in. The first pitch (5.10d) climbs a shallow R-facing corner, steps left and follows a seam past 2 pins and reaches a bolt near the left arete. Turn a small roof, then turn another one, and gain insecure jams and follow a seam to the belay. If you're trying to hang directionals or something on this pitch, to set a TR without leading it, angle as much to the west (left) as you can, while rappelling.
The 2nd pitch (5.10a) follows cracks to pass through the obvious 4' roof with a 4" crack in it. Yes, that one that you noticed as looking impressive when you rapped over it on the way in. Small gear can protect this if you don't want to bring a big cam.
I copied the Iron Age topo over to this page, which shows Fistful of Steel on it too.
Rap in. The first pitch (5.10d) climbs a shallow R-facing corner, steps left and follows a seam past 2 pins and reaches a bolt near the left arete. Turn a small roof, then turn another one, and gain insecure jams and follow a seam to the belay. If you're trying to hang directionals or something on this pitch, to set a TR without leading it, angle as much to the west (left) as you can, while rappelling.
The 2nd pitch (5.10a) follows cracks to pass through the obvious 4' roof with a 4" crack in it. Yes, that one that you noticed as looking impressive when you rapped over it on the way in. Small gear can protect this if you don't want to bring a big cam.
I copied the Iron Age topo over to this page, which shows Fistful of Steel on it too.
Location
West-most climb on the SW Face of the Anvil.
When looking at the bare rocky point of the Anvil, walk to the right 30' to the next smaller point, and locate the anchors 5' below the lip.
2 rappels: the 1st rappel is 85' (1 rope) to a stance with a bolt and pin, the 2nd is 180' (2 ropes needed, or just TR it).
When looking at the bare rocky point of the Anvil, walk to the right 30' to the next smaller point, and locate the anchors 5' below the lip.
2 rappels: the 1st rappel is 85' (1 rope) to a stance with a bolt and pin, the 2nd is 180' (2 ropes needed, or just TR it).
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