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Le Piège

5.10c, Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > France > 04 Northern Alps > Chamonix Mont B… > Envers des Aigu… > Tour Vert

Description

p1: High quality thin hands to hands to off width (#4) 5.10c
p2: Lie back and face climbing 10c
p3: 4th class Ledge tranverse to mixed face and crack climbing to a stance on a block at the base of the prominent arete. 5.9
p4: Steep cracks and face to bi pass a roof (10c) or climb the roof directly (11a)
p5: Hand crack in a corner glory (5.8/9)
p6: Easy and fun to the summit (low 5th)

Location

Five minutes from the refuge. Start atop a block split by an offwidth crack.

Protection

Double rack of cams plus one #4 for p1.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The setting. Matt coming up pitch one, which is over all too quickly.
[Hide Photo] The setting. Matt coming up pitch one, which is over all too quickly.
Getting into the steeper terrain on p4
[Hide Photo] Getting into the steeper terrain on p4
Unknown climber on the short technical arete at the top of p2
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on the short technical arete at the top of p2
Glorious crack climbing in the alpine. What more could you want?
[Hide Photo] Glorious crack climbing in the alpine. What more could you want?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Salcone
Geneva, CH
 
[Hide Comment] Although one eventually reaches a bolt to protect the widest section of the first pitch, it would be runout without a #4. The route can be safely led on a single rack, but doubles helpful .5 - 1.

Many variations are possible on pitch 5.

The last pitch (p6) can be taken to the right (5.7) up a slab into a short offwidth layback, or left to the “true” summit. Sep 21, 2019
Austin Lillywhite
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] A five star route for me: stunning alpine cracks of all sizes, a couple of engaging slab moves on an arete, 10 minute walk from the hut, jaw dropping scenery.

The direct start should be mandatory. It is a such a fun splitter ranging from fists and off width to tight hands to sinker hands. This pitch alone is worth the trouble.

The direct roof move on p4 is a blast. Felt stiffer than 11a to me but I have big fingers and was out of shape. Aug 6, 2024