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Routes in Mount Hooker
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All Grown ups are Pirates T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Betwixt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cache Pirates T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gaff, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Gamblin' in the Winds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Hook, Line, and Sinker (aka the Free Boissonneault-Larson) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Jaded Lady T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Optimist (The Nolan Smythe Memorial Route), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Original Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sendero Luminoso Free T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shady Lady T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Rick Bradshaw, Jim Dockery 1978 (VI 5.11 A4). FFA Josh Wharton and Andrew Rothner 2015 |
| Page Views: | 3,862 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Sep 4, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Shady Lady was among the early aid lines on the wall. Much of it had been previously free climbed during the FFA of Sendero Luminoso, and Jaded Lady. Andrew and I simply free climbed two pitches via Shady Lady's original line to connect the free version of Sendero Luminoso with Jaded Lady; creating a very high quality 5.12+ route.
Begin with the first five pitches of Sendero Luminoso. (Good topo on Sendero' route page.). These pitches feature incredible, relatively well protetced face climbing, with two especially good 12+ pitches.
At the top of the 11c arch pitch on Sendero follow an obvious right racing corner directly above the belay. (This corner was a bit wet and mossy, but the rock itself is good.). Then face climb your way left above the arch into the wide left-facing flake, passing numerous pins, and some relics form Shady Lady. Gently negotiate some precarious flakes, and belay at a chimney stance off a beak and small pin. It's nice to place the #5 C4 up high to back up this anchor. 160 ft. 5.11+
Continue up a mediocre wide pitch on the huge flake/pillar. At the top of the pillar, down climb two meters to the right to gain a nice belay ledge and some old bolts on Jaded Lady. 120 ft. 5.9
At this point you are 100 feet above the 12a traverse pitch on Jaded Lady. Seven more pitches (including the Der Minor Traverse) leads to the top. The climbing is mostly extremely fun 5.10, and of course there's the immaculate 12a corner pitch as well!
It's worth noting that Shady Lady actually traversed a bit right on Der Minor and finished independently via a left facing corner. I traversed over and had a look, but the rock seemed chossy about 150 feet above Der Minor, so we chose to continue via Jaded Lady. Hopefully my impression was incorrect, and there are more quality free pitches to be done on the original finish to Shady Lady.
Begin with the first five pitches of Sendero Luminoso. (Good topo on Sendero' route page.). These pitches feature incredible, relatively well protetced face climbing, with two especially good 12+ pitches.
At the top of the 11c arch pitch on Sendero follow an obvious right racing corner directly above the belay. (This corner was a bit wet and mossy, but the rock itself is good.). Then face climb your way left above the arch into the wide left-facing flake, passing numerous pins, and some relics form Shady Lady. Gently negotiate some precarious flakes, and belay at a chimney stance off a beak and small pin. It's nice to place the #5 C4 up high to back up this anchor. 160 ft. 5.11+
Continue up a mediocre wide pitch on the huge flake/pillar. At the top of the pillar, down climb two meters to the right to gain a nice belay ledge and some old bolts on Jaded Lady. 120 ft. 5.9
At this point you are 100 feet above the 12a traverse pitch on Jaded Lady. Seven more pitches (including the Der Minor Traverse) leads to the top. The climbing is mostly extremely fun 5.10, and of course there's the immaculate 12a corner pitch as well!
It's worth noting that Shady Lady actually traversed a bit right on Der Minor and finished independently via a left facing corner. I traversed over and had a look, but the rock seemed chossy about 150 feet above Der Minor, so we chose to continue via Jaded Lady. Hopefully my impression was incorrect, and there are more quality free pitches to be done on the original finish to Shady Lady.
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