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Kurihara (Jiro Kurihara Memorial Route)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Canmore Wall
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Kurihara (Jiro Kurihara Memorial Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 1400 ft (424 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Michael Duerr, Hubi Zilbauer, Chris Hummel |
| Page Views: | 2,569 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Jones on Aug 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
An incredible addition to Canmore Wall area and also a tribute to a fallen climber.
TABVAR has some great free topos of routes, this one included (link in text)
From TAVBAR:
This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011. Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.
RIP Jiro
Pitch 2 (5.9, 60 m, 11 bolts): up the corner trending right where it splits.
Pitch 3 (easy ridge, 40 m, 2 bolts): Follow the ridge to the right. The anchor is on the right, just before it gets steep.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 55 m, 4 bolts): Stay on the left by the second bolt. The anchor is on the right (in the shade).
Pitch 5 (5.10a, 55 m, 11 bolts): Climb up a short corner and straight up the face above. Continue up and left to a shallow corner. Finish up the slab to the right.
Pitch 6 (5.10b, 28 m, 5 bolts): Continue up the slab to a nice ledge.
Pitch 7 (5.10c, 45 m, 11 bolts): Up straight for about 20m, then across a ramp to the right and up to the anchor just left of the corner about 5 m below the roof.
Pitch 8 (5.10d, 40 m, 11 bolts): Traverse out right staying low until past the second bolt. Then climb up to a corner and further left to a crack/corner. The anchor is on a ledge on the right.
Pitch 9 (5.10a, 35 m, 8 bolts) Climb the face up and right, then turn left into the corner. Follow the steep black stripe from the left to the right and up to the anchor.
Pitch 10 (5.9, 45 m, 8 bolts) Up the corner, through the chimney, up the gully. Pull over the edge after the laststeep 8 meters. Find a single bolt anchor 5 m back and down from the edge.
TABVAR has some great free topos of routes, this one included (link in text)
From TAVBAR:
This route was put up in tribute to Jiro Kurihara who passed away in an avalanche in Alaska in May 2011. Jiro was a passionate climber who lived in Canmore because he loved the Canadian Rockies.
RIP Jiro
Climbing Sequence
Pitch 1 (5.6, 25 m, 2 bolts): Climb the short gully and continue up to the anchor on the right.Pitch 2 (5.9, 60 m, 11 bolts): up the corner trending right where it splits.
Pitch 3 (easy ridge, 40 m, 2 bolts): Follow the ridge to the right. The anchor is on the right, just before it gets steep.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 55 m, 4 bolts): Stay on the left by the second bolt. The anchor is on the right (in the shade).
Pitch 5 (5.10a, 55 m, 11 bolts): Climb up a short corner and straight up the face above. Continue up and left to a shallow corner. Finish up the slab to the right.
Pitch 6 (5.10b, 28 m, 5 bolts): Continue up the slab to a nice ledge.
Pitch 7 (5.10c, 45 m, 11 bolts): Up straight for about 20m, then across a ramp to the right and up to the anchor just left of the corner about 5 m below the roof.
Pitch 8 (5.10d, 40 m, 11 bolts): Traverse out right staying low until past the second bolt. Then climb up to a corner and further left to a crack/corner. The anchor is on a ledge on the right.
Pitch 9 (5.10a, 35 m, 8 bolts) Climb the face up and right, then turn left into the corner. Follow the steep black stripe from the left to the right and up to the anchor.
Pitch 10 (5.9, 45 m, 8 bolts) Up the corner, through the chimney, up the gully. Pull over the edge after the laststeep 8 meters. Find a single bolt anchor 5 m back and down from the edge.
Protection
14 quickdraws (some long ones) and two 60 m half or twin ropes (essential for rappel!). No extra gear is required for protection. All anchors are equipped with two bolts and set up for rappelling.
Descent
5 m down and left (climbers left) of where you top out there is a rap anchor on solid rock.
Rappel the route from here!
Skip the anchor of pitch 6 making sure there are knots in the ends (use a prusik you will get close to the ends of your ropes!)
Downclimb the ridge of pitch 3! It is safer to use the two bolts and climb down on belay!
Rappel the route from here!
Skip the anchor of pitch 6 making sure there are knots in the ends (use a prusik you will get close to the ends of your ropes!)
Downclimb the ridge of pitch 3! It is safer to use the two bolts and climb down on belay!
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