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Babies in Kailand
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 20
votes
Routes in Slhanay
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Deep Impact T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Halley's Comet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bonsai Tree T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fog Ducker Spire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Dimensional T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Flutterby ridge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dean Channel, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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White Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Birds of the Sun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hollow Men, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Open project. The Hollow Men-P1 TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Skyline Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Great Game, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Godforsaken direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nonsensical S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zig-Zag Zimulator T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Colin Moorhead, Kinley Aitken 2011 |
| Page Views: | 3,361 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is an incredible route, with each pitch offering a different type of challenge. You definitely get the whole spectrum of Squamish climbing in these 5 pitches.
P1 (10d): This is the the 1st pitch of Straight Outta Squampton. Climb easily up to a small roof and pull out left into a good flake. Follow the flake up and step right into a right-facing corner which leads to an intimidating little roof. Go left around the roof and climb more thin cracks to a bolted belay (30m).
P2 (11a): Climb some face cracks above the belay and then move left into a wide undercling/chimney (the Hirvonen Slot). Prepare for a full body pump as you grind your way up the flare. There are 3 bolts and some gear in the back of the chimney. At the top of the slot, move right to anchors (25m)
P3 (11b): Follow thin cracks and make a series of left traverses. The thin-hands crux comes towards the end just as you are losing steam. This is an outstanding pitch and is quite sustained. (35m)
P4 (10b): The climb changes character now - this pitch face climbs up over a few bulges (20m).
P5 (11a): The angle kicks back but now you'll need to make some slabby moves until you can join the last pitch of Photophobia.
Descent: Rap straight down with a 70m rope. You will end up descending climber's left of the Hirvonen slot. If you have a 60m rope you can rap Photophobia.
P1 (10d): This is the the 1st pitch of Straight Outta Squampton. Climb easily up to a small roof and pull out left into a good flake. Follow the flake up and step right into a right-facing corner which leads to an intimidating little roof. Go left around the roof and climb more thin cracks to a bolted belay (30m).
P2 (11a): Climb some face cracks above the belay and then move left into a wide undercling/chimney (the Hirvonen Slot). Prepare for a full body pump as you grind your way up the flare. There are 3 bolts and some gear in the back of the chimney. At the top of the slot, move right to anchors (25m)
P3 (11b): Follow thin cracks and make a series of left traverses. The thin-hands crux comes towards the end just as you are losing steam. This is an outstanding pitch and is quite sustained. (35m)
P4 (10b): The climb changes character now - this pitch face climbs up over a few bulges (20m).
P5 (11a): The angle kicks back but now you'll need to make some slabby moves until you can join the last pitch of Photophobia.
Descent: Rap straight down with a 70m rope. You will end up descending climber's left of the Hirvonen slot. If you have a 60m rope you can rap Photophobia.
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