Toto to the Pinnacle link up
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), Grade IV |
FA: | who knows |
Page Views: | 3,090 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Griswald on Aug 24, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | L Von Dommelheimer |
Toto to the Pinnacle Link
Part 1-To start this classic link-up, first climb Toto. My suggestion if its not wet is to simul climb all the way to the base of the 5.9 dihedral, apx 120 meters. Climb the 5.9 corner, then for the next pitch go out right and clip that funny bolt ) this pitch is a fast way to go. Next, climb the choss to the top of Toto. Next, climb the right side of the ridge until you find your self at the top of the Green Gully.
Part 2-Climb the first pitch of Rebeccas Roof to the base of My Pie (5.9). (see photo) Climb the left side of My Pie (5.10b Crux) so you can easily climb to the top of the formation without out massive rope drag.
Part 3-Walk along the ridge, many variations are possible. Once you are at the pinnacle many variations are possible. The classic 3 or 4 pitch climb is on the ridge somewhat near the couloir.
Part 4-I think the best way to get off this climb is to rappel one time and walk out to the Independence Mine parking. You can also rappel the pinnacle and walk back to the base of Toto.
Extension: If you are making good time try adding a bunch of ridge pitches by continuing on the ridge and following it till you get to the Fairangel Gap (5.9). This extension is know as the M.T.C. Memorial Traverse. (FA Aaron Thrasher and Ben Chriswell)
Extension^2 = Full Fairangel valley traverse: Instead of descending where the M.T.C. extension cuts to Fairangel gap, continue along the ridge for it's entirety (5.10-, 8.5 miles). The FA party (Ethan Berkeland and Tristan O'Donoghue) bivvied at the MTC cutoff but it is possible to do this in single push under 24 hrs.
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