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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall
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Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Arrowhead T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Back to the Gym T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bleed Between the Lines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Manticore Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FFA: Unknown (Prior to 2015) TR Ken Roberts 2015 (First Recorded) |
| Page Views: | 1,234 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 22, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Interesting vertical sequence at the bottom on positive holds. Then in the upper half an interesting less-than-vertical sequence on less-positive holds.
Start at the right side of the alcove and climb straight up by a thin crack to a ledge. Scramble up through bushes to the next rock face. The complex crack sequence on the left side is the Madara variation of the Red Knob route (easier). On the right edge of the face is the Manticore Upper Arete (easier).
Climb up the obvious vertical crack 5 feet left of the arete for 15 feet. Up a little higher passing a crack diagonaling up left - (Variation: Follow this lower diagonal crack). Bear left at the next higher crack diagonaling up left (without using the wider zig-zag crack a foot to its right, which is on the Manticore Upper Arete route). Up to finish about 5 feet left of the arete.
Could use the tree-sling anchor for Red Knob Madara Variation, which is about twenty or thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete.
Could also Top-Rope ... the Red Knob Madara Variation, The Rossinator, and Rock Romancer routes from the Madara Face tree anchor ... Also
... from a top anchor nearby, could Top-Rope (in the Sunny Picnics area) the Manticore Dihedral , Picnics Arete and Picnics Dihedral routes, and perhaps with a directional the Rodeo Clown boulder problem ... also
... Sigrun's Choice route in the Enclosure area.
. . . [ Manticore? | images ] . . .
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Start at the right side of the alcove and climb straight up by a thin crack to a ledge. Scramble up through bushes to the next rock face. The complex crack sequence on the left side is the Madara variation of the Red Knob route (easier). On the right edge of the face is the Manticore Upper Arete (easier).
Climb up the obvious vertical crack 5 feet left of the arete for 15 feet. Up a little higher passing a crack diagonaling up left - (Variation: Follow this lower diagonal crack). Bear left at the next higher crack diagonaling up left (without using the wider zig-zag crack a foot to its right, which is on the Manticore Upper Arete route). Up to finish about 5 feet left of the arete.
Could use the tree-sling anchor for Red Knob Madara Variation, which is about twenty or thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete.
Could also Top-Rope ... the Red Knob Madara Variation, The Rossinator, and Rock Romancer routes from the Madara Face tree anchor ... Also
... from a top anchor nearby, could Top-Rope (in the Sunny Picnics area) the Manticore Dihedral , Picnics Arete and Picnics Dihedral routes, and perhaps with a directional the Rodeo Clown boulder problem ... also
... Sigrun's Choice route in the Enclosure area.
. . . [ Manticore? | images ] . . .
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
At the right side of a seven-foot high alcove with a thin crack above. 15 feet right of the Dead Tree Dihedral. 10 feet left of the arete which forms the right edge of the Tower Wall. Top of route finishes about four feet left of the top of the arete.
Top: As of 2015, there are anchor slings (? for the Madara variation of the route Red Knob ?) roughly at the top of this route -- about five feet west (climber's left) from the top of the arete (of Manticore Upper Arete).
. . (warning: Using this as an anchor for Top-Rope could result in a falling climber swinging substantially sideways to climber's left).
Top: As of 2015, there are anchor slings (? for the Madara variation of the route Red Knob ?) roughly at the top of this route -- about five feet west (climber's left) from the top of the arete (of Manticore Upper Arete).
. . (warning: Using this as an anchor for Top-Rope could result in a falling climber swinging substantially sideways to climber's left).
Protection
Top-Rope: Top anchor can be set up with static line off tree -- likely need to use two trees to handle the angle. Or control rope angle by using a sling from the tree anchor which is twenty to thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete (requires a low class 5 move to get from the top of the cliff down to this tree, so recommend using a rope to reach it).
The rock is high-friction, so think about how to minimize rope drag for Top-Roping. If belaying from the bottom, seems like having the belayer stand below right from the Manticore Dihedral helps reduce rope friction.
UPDATE: There are no friction issues on this climb if actually climbed. You would only know this if you actually climbed the route. Extending anchors as always recommended will make this issue non-existent. There are plenty of locations for pro and the flared cracks take tricams like any other flared crack. Belayer can stand back from the cliff and anchor to a tree. Great climb!
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