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Routes in Der Freischutz
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Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Street Hassle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Frankenstein TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Horn, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Bidoigt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reality TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock and Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Elvis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Porcelain God T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Dwarfs Are People Too T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Face / Der Freischutz T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Free Shot T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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North East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Sidewalk Stroll T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Roth, Glen Charnoski, Jay Droeger |
| Page Views: | 2,752 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Aug 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
With the routes Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll right here, it should be no surprise that Fat Elvis was lurking around the corner. The upper half also reminded me of Velvet Elvis, with a rising traverse above an overhang, only easier. Train for this one with a strict regimen of peanut butter, banana, and bacon sandwiches, and try not to die on the toilet until you climb this!
The first half chases 4 bolts up a clean and easy face to a ledge. This is a good place for a rest/nap (if low angle 5.7 is your limit). There is a great optional gear placement here if the next bolt seems scary to clip. Pretty much any big nut, tri-cam, or hex will fit.
Clip a bolt and pull over the roof on the right. Traverse up and left to the rounded and exposed arête, past 3 more bolts. Lower angle rock and jugs lead up and right to an anchor on a slab. The anchor is a little far from the "lip", so there is a bit of friction when lowering. It was placed there to keep the rope away from the tree on the ledge and also allow top roping of other variations to the right. It is also easy to reach this anchor from above in case you want to approach via an East Face Route instead of hiking around.
The first half chases 4 bolts up a clean and easy face to a ledge. This is a good place for a rest/nap (if low angle 5.7 is your limit). There is a great optional gear placement here if the next bolt seems scary to clip. Pretty much any big nut, tri-cam, or hex will fit.
Clip a bolt and pull over the roof on the right. Traverse up and left to the rounded and exposed arête, past 3 more bolts. Lower angle rock and jugs lead up and right to an anchor on a slab. The anchor is a little far from the "lip", so there is a bit of friction when lowering. It was placed there to keep the rope away from the tree on the ledge and also allow top roping of other variations to the right. It is also easy to reach this anchor from above in case you want to approach via an East Face Route instead of hiking around.
Location
It is on the West face to the right and below the Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll ledge.
From the saddle between The Hand and Der Freischutz, step down to the West and walk down the gully to the South. Pass around the base of a giant boulder into a small alcove to discover the great staging area.
From the saddle between The Hand and Der Freischutz, step down to the West and walk down the gully to the South. Pass around the base of a giant boulder into a small alcove to discover the great staging area.
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