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Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British AI3 M4 Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 17
votes
Routes in Aiguilles de Chamonix (Plan de l'Aiguille)
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Col du Plan North Couloir T AI3 M3 Steep Snow |
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Frendo Spur - Aiguille du Midi 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c AI3 M4 Steep Snow |
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Mallory-Porter (rectified) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Mini Blast/"Rebel Yell" T AI4 Easy Snow |
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Tournier Spur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AI3 M4 |
| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3950 ft (1197 m), Grade III |
| GPS: | 45.90057, 6.90014 |
| FA: | Edouard Frendo and Rene Rionda, July 11, 1941 |
| Page Views: | 8,116 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015 |
| Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
The route meanders up the spine of the spur looking for the line of least resistance until the upper rock section is exited left on a slanting dihedral that goes around 5.8. The upper third of the route starts off on a steep aesthetic snow ridge followed by steep ice slopes, up to 80-degrees for two to three pitches either exiting left or right around the rock buttress at the top. The ice is steeper if going left. It is also possible to go directly up the upper rock buttress as done on the first ascent, but rarely done now given the development in ice climbing techniques and equipment. Do not underestimate the commitment level of this route, despite its proximity to civilization as the route finding can be difficult and the climbing tedious.
Location
From the Plan d'Aiguille station or the refuge nearby head up and right to the base of the spur aiming for a left to right snow ramp about 200 ft above and right of the bergschrund. Takes about 45 minutes to approach. From the top it takes about 20 minutes to reach the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station for the way down.
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