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Decoy Buckets

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 18 votes
FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, 1983
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South

Description

Although most guidebooks have this climb listed as a 5.9, I don't know anyone who has climbed it who thinks it's that hard. If you can climb 5.8 elsewhere at Sunset, this one shouldn't give you any problems.

Climb some right-facing flakes up to a small overhang with a small tree above it. Pull over and head left of the tree toward a right-facing corner above. The corner is capped by another overhang, and above that good holds will lead you upward to an exit crack at the top of the cliff.

Location

To the left of the Giant's Niche -- the large archway to the left of the Blonde Ambition area. Looking at the wall to the left of the arch, there's an obvious right-facing corner system about halfway up. That's the middle of the route.

Protection

standard rack, bolts w/rings at the top

Although not required for toproping, 4 ft. slings to extend the anchor will save your rope some abuse and ensure you have enough rope to reach the ground.

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Decoy Buckets
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Mello Onsight
Alpharetta GA,
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great route and an excellent choice for the aspiring 5.8 leader and there's plenty of gear. The hardest part is the first 20ft and then it's a jug haul to the top. There is nothing 5.9 about this and most moves are 5.7. Watch your ends if using a 60, I've only done this on a 70 Oct 24, 2021
Jon Winsley
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] As near as we could tell, seems to be the same 2/3 as Space Flaps. Once you get above the tree and on a little ledge there is line to the right, Decoy Buckets and a line to the left, Space Flaps. Both have rap anchors. A 60m worked fine from Decoy Buckets but you wouldnt want a shorter rope. Jul 15, 2024