All Locations > Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South

Decoy Buckets

Name: Decoy Buckets
Rating: 2.9

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Sunset South

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial Aviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Afternoon Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Afternoon Walk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Agrippa T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Airbrush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Airy Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Anteater Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Armadillo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Armadillo’s Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	B-52 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baby Cats T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Back Street Revelations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Battle Above the Clouds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beast, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Beauty, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Black Magic T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Blonde Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bought the Farm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Bountiful Barnacles T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Chipmunk Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cobbler, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Confederate Arete T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Day After, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Deck Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Decoy Buckets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Direct Afraid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Divinity Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dodge City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Draft dodger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dreamway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Escape from Ventura T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Experimental animals T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Facts Of Strife T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fear and Whisky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flash Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Golden Years T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Jenga Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jenga Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jug Mania T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jugular Vein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Liberty Bell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lichen or Not T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Little Pearl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lizard Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lizards in Action T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mama Raccoon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mercenary Territory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nicki's Climb 5.4 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Northwest Conversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Off to See the Lizard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Optical Delusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pancake Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Pigs in Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Second Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Silent Runner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sinsophrenia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Skunk Fritter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Southern Fried Possum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Space Flaps T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Squirrel Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sudden Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sunset Sonata T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Temple of Doom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Terminal Impatience T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Train Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Train Time Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Unnamed Dihedral Flake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walk in the Park T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whistler's Mother T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Wind Walker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Windmill T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, 1983
Page Views:	1,144 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Chuck Parks on Jul 28, 2015
Admins:	Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Although most guidebooks have this climb listed as a 5.9, I don't know anyone who has climbed it who thinks it's that hard. If you can climb 5.8 elsewhere at Sunset, this one shouldn't give you any problems.

Climb some right-facing flakes up to a small overhang with a small tree above it. Pull over and head left of the tree toward a right-facing corner above. The corner is capped by another overhang, and above that good holds will lead you upward to an exit crack at the top of the cliff.

Location

To the left of the Giant's Niche -- the large archway to the left of the Blonde Ambition area. Looking at the wall to the left of the arch, there's an obvious right-facing corner system about halfway up. That's the middle of the route.

Protection

standard rack, bolts w/rings at the top

Although not required for toproping, 4 ft. slings to extend the anchor will save your rope some abuse and ensure you have enough rope to reach the ground.