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Routes in The Wedge
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Beast of Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Book of Easy Learning T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ghost of a Smile S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leggo My Ego S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nineveh T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not of this State S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Timeless T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vein Imagination T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wisdom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Grant Walker, Wes Schaffer, '96. |
| Page Views: | 1,380 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mat Brunton on Jul 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | L Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
Excellent 5.11- face climbing through relatively clean and solid, bolt-protected Chugach rock to a small ledge. Trad finish up a short, vertical 5.10- hand crack.
Start from a nice belay ledge into an open corner for the first bolt then out onto the face and directly up for five more bolts to the small ledge below the short hand crack finish.
Top out the hand crack to another small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor on the right.
Start from a nice belay ledge into an open corner for the first bolt then out onto the face and directly up for five more bolts to the small ledge below the short hand crack finish.
Top out the hand crack to another small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor on the right.
Location
This is the middle climb on the first tower. It's between Sodom & Gomorrah (5.10- R, left) and Great Expectations (5.11c/d, right). Starts from a nice, flat belay ledge after a short scramble up the tundra and scree of the main gully.
Protection
6 bolts, gear, 2 bolt anchor.
The upper crack protects well, but can be a bit tricky. It will accept a range of gear (BD cams from the smallest up to size #2 and medium to large stoppers). There are some bomber placements for larger stoppers, and a lot of options for cams. Limiting factors for placements are a somewhat awkward body position and the pump factor from the bolted climbing below. Make sure you are confident in your ability and/or be sure to protect the lower half of the crack well to avoid a potentially dangerous ledge fall.
The upper crack protects well, but can be a bit tricky. It will accept a range of gear (BD cams from the smallest up to size #2 and medium to large stoppers). There are some bomber placements for larger stoppers, and a lot of options for cams. Limiting factors for placements are a somewhat awkward body position and the pump factor from the bolted climbing below. Make sure you are confident in your ability and/or be sure to protect the lower half of the crack well to avoid a potentially dangerous ledge fall.
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