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> Sign Crack Area
Disney Chimney
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Sign Crack Area
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Disney Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hop, Skip, and a Jump S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Paradigm Shift S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sign Crack V2 5+ |
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TR Routes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Jim Disney |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | JF M on Jul 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is the obvious, large chimney that one sees 50 yards above the road when traveling down-canyon. It is about 30 yards left of Hop, Skip, & Jump and is located before the corner around which sits Paradigm Shift.
Start as low as possible in this shoulder-wide slot that gets progressively wider as you ascend. When the (climber's) left wall turns to a ridge, either traverse inside the chimney or go out onto the face -- either way leads to a small overhang to be surmounted before finishing up on the final, ledgy, slab bit.
As one may imagine, many birds like this cool, dark slot to roost in. The bird shit adds a letter grade. Watch out for loose rock.
Start as low as possible in this shoulder-wide slot that gets progressively wider as you ascend. When the (climber's) left wall turns to a ridge, either traverse inside the chimney or go out onto the face -- either way leads to a small overhang to be surmounted before finishing up on the final, ledgy, slab bit.
As one may imagine, many birds like this cool, dark slot to roost in. The bird shit adds a letter grade. Watch out for loose rock.
Location
Access this one of two ways. Either approach as for Hop, Skip, and a Jump, then cut left across the loose scree, or approach from the roadside up a small, steep ramp almost directly below the chimney. Either way, be careful of dislodging rocks that may fall into the road.
Rap from the small pine with a 70m rope, or scramble uphill and climber's left to find a much larger pine from which a rappel will deposit you near the base of Paradigm Shift.
Rap from the small pine with a 70m rope, or scramble uphill and climber's left to find a much larger pine from which a rappel will deposit you near the base of Paradigm Shift.
Protection
Gear is generally available where you need it. For a new 5.7 leader, there may be some sections that seem run-out, though over easier climbing. Otherwise, gear from tiny to BD #5 will fit. Doubles in the BD #0.5/#0.75/1 range might help calm the nerves at times.
No bolted belay exists, and the rock immediately at the top-out is of questionable use as anchor-points. Search around to find worthwhile stone or a nearby smallish pine that can also be used to rap (webbing & ring added 7/18/15).
No bolted belay exists, and the rock immediately at the top-out is of questionable use as anchor-points. Search around to find worthwhile stone or a nearby smallish pine that can also be used to rap (webbing & ring added 7/18/15).
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