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Routes in Upper West View / Sunset Wall
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General Hong's Army TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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La Cucharita TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Torque Around TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torqued Off T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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InoYormos TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. Hutt's TP TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,596 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | James Elric on Jul 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Description
Start at the tempting crack deep in the dihedral of Sunset Wall. Great rest position after you pull the first portion of the crack and get to the second tier. Stay on the crack line on the left of the roof and rest assured the crux is behind you. After the roof head left to the anchors. The roof is doable direct but kinda feels like your trying too hard to make it harder with such a good crack line to follow
The first crack has a tendency to seem overly difficult the first time but once you have the moves it's definitely not 5.11 material.
Apparently other locals have called this climb "torqued off". Don't know who called it that but honoring that name since it seems to be slightly older than my circle's naming convention.
easier variation on trad: if you get pumped or otherwise don't want to do the second roof you can traverse left - super smooth but great horizontal cracks and the rest will be sub 5.5. Too much traversing to be safe on TR IMO.
The first crack has a tendency to seem overly difficult the first time but once you have the moves it's definitely not 5.11 material.
Apparently other locals have called this climb "torqued off". Don't know who called it that but honoring that name since it seems to be slightly older than my circle's naming convention.
easier variation on trad: if you get pumped or otherwise don't want to do the second roof you can traverse left - super smooth but great horizontal cracks and the rest will be sub 5.5. Too much traversing to be safe on TR IMO.
Protection
Set up a top rope anchor or trad. I actually put a 0.5 around shoulder height at the start which is unconventional since obviously won't stop a ground fall. But it does stop you from tumbling down the steep belay area. It's a pretty committing first 10 feet on trad - not ideal if you're not strong in the grade.
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