All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > E Face/Guides Wall (…

Two for One

Name: Two for One
Rating: 3.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in East Face/Guides Wall (Left side)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arrow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Blue Collar Holler T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Browbeater T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Clincher, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Guide’s Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Moonwalk T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Moonwalk Right-hand variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Nonlinear Equation T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Questionable Hummus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Tricks Of The Trade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Two for One T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Unknown 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown bolted route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unknown face right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Wide corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA:	NB
Page Views:	835 total · 7/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Jul 8, 2015
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

This is a wild line that requires skill at two polar opposites in climbing -- thin slab and steep roofs. It combines parts of an older abandoned slab route (of mine), with a new more direct middle section and finally finishes on an old unknown roof crack (The roof crack was apparently done by Whitney H. & Max B. who came in from the right-hand corner and may or may not have aided the roof).

Start by manteling onto a crescent shaped feature and get a good hand size cam in the eyebrow. From here, move up and slightly right past the techy eyebrow crux (5.11 underclings) protected by a #1 and #0 tcu (in that order). From the ledge above, wander up the easier face past gear and 1 bolt. Note: If climbing with a 60 meter rope, stop and belay at the good horizontal.

The slab climbing gradually increases in difficulty, and is protected by 4 more bolts and one piece of gear. Once at the roof, move left to the obvious roof crack. The slab directly below the roof is often wet and mossy but don't worry -- you'll not be using your feet much from here on... Rail out the incredible roof (past hand size cams) to an anchor just below the hanging rhodo-garden (5.10-).

With a 70 meter rope: Lower in one pitch.

With a 60 meter rope: Break up into 2 pitches then have the leader lower from roof anchor to ground.