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Son of a Wanted Man
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad |
FA: | Scott Milton |
Page Views: | 1,449 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Macartney on Jul 1, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
Son of a Wanted Man is an anomaly for Vedauwoo; instead of climbing a crack or sharp crystals, the dike that characterizes this route allows you to climb on mostly smooth holds: crimps, pinches, and underclings. Don't let the abundant features fool you though, Son of a Wanted Man is hard from the get go. A short tricky boulder problem guards the beginning of the route, then after a quick reprieve, you charge forward into the crux overlap, where the angle of the wall changes. As you get closer to the obvious jug, the other features die off, and you are left with powerful moves to vague pinches and blobs. Once you gain the Thank God jug, the hard climbing is over, but now you have to place gear for protection, and just when you think it's over, there is one last boulder guarding the chains, more of a mental challenge than a physical one though.
Location
You'll find this route about a hundred feet left of Pretty Girls With Long Knives. The route climbs the obvious dike feature (handholds!) up the mostly vertical face.
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