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The Edge

5.8, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Devil's Den
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice adventure climb with superb exposure without having to get too high off the deck.

Start up the face just right of the big chimney and stay right of the curving flake until you get to a good belay spot. I recommend this even though the pitch is short as the route makes a hard left at this point. Speaking of which, look left and marvel at the amazingly inviting (and a little intimidating) leftward traverse. Follow this very obvious line which offers good hand holds and protection but smooth slabby feet toward a more vertical short off width section (don't be scared it's not hard). Atop this OW there is a perch that could work as another belay, or just continue up the low angle slab/arete to the summit (beware of some fragile flakes on the last 25-30 feet and little in the way of solid protection).

I highly recommend this to anyone looking for an enjoyable adventure at the grade and an opportunity to avoid the busier cliffs.

Location

At the far left end of the cliff look for the big dark chimney. This line is just to the right of that feature up the rambling low angle rock.

Protection

Regular rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pretty flake and the Edge
[Hide Photo] Pretty flake and the Edge
Note the amazing but slightly spooky flakes
[Hide Photo] Note the amazing but slightly spooky flakes
Torie headed to the summit
[Hide Photo] Torie headed to the summit
Belay ledge on top of P1. The exposed traverse is just out of view.
[Hide Photo] Belay ledge on top of P1. The exposed traverse is just out of view.
Nice exposed position
[Hide Photo] Nice exposed position
The route
[Hide Photo] The route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Eaton
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have information on the direct route. Lower quality for sure but is a straight line up from the start. Instead of breaking right into the p1 belay ledge, you could continue straight up on harder climbing, crossing the traverse and continuing straight up. Jun 22, 2018
Alec Woolley
Greenfield, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Not sure if this is what you are thinking about but there is another 5.8 climb called Wedge that goes straight up from the starting point, into a cave with the mankiest slings I've ever seen for anchor...they are more moss than nylon now (bring doubles hands-fist sizes solely for a gear anchor). Then it climbs out of the cave on the right hand side and meets up with the traverse pitchabout 3/4ths the way in. Its an ok route but Edge is definitely the more enjoyable climb Jun 27, 2018
Christian Eaton
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I don’t believe The Wedge is what I’m looking at. If you were to climb the first 3/4 of the first pitch, then instead of walking to the right where you can build an anchor just below the tree, you head straight up a thin face that meets up with the beginning of the P2 hand traverse. You could continue up a shallow finger crack. I’m going to explore this variation today. I’ll report back. Jul 27, 2018
Brandon Bornholdt
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] Anyone have current info on this? I'm thinking it could make a good first multi-pitch climb. Thanks. Oct 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] A few years ago I asked around about this climb for the same reason. More experienced climbers told me that it was not a good first multipitch - the rock quality is not great and some of the pro can be tricky.

Better first multipitch climbs can be found at Cathedral or Artist's Bluff. Oct 30, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Thanks Tyler I was just going to say the same thing. Which I may have said to you a while back ;) Oct 30, 2019