Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bryan Law, Greg Barnes, and George Ridgley, 2008/2009
Page Views: 1,184 total · 10/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 27, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tectonomagmatic is a good approach pitch to Five Ten, You Wuss. It is a long face climb with some classic Tuolumne knob and slab climbing that is mostly well protected but also features some good runouts to keep you excited. Rated 10b in the guidebook, we thought it was pretty hard for the grade. Start by climbing into the scoop, placing some gear and then clipping several bolts with some tricky and hard climbing about 1/3 up the pitch. Above, the difficulty eases as you continue clipping bolts. You finish at a ledge with a two bolt anchor down and right or a two bolt anchor up and left.

This route has a second pitch that was done by Bryan and George in October of 2009.  There are at least 6 lead bolts on the second pitch and it may take some gear too.  There is a bolted anchor at the end of the pitch.  The route can be used as an approach to On the Lamb without crossing over to Five Ten, You Wuss.

Location Suggest change

Left of Five Ten, You Wuss, this climb starts where a small, scooping ledge feature sits 10 feet above the start. This is easily surpassed and above you can place the first gear behind this feature and then above in a crack/flake feature before clipping the first of several bolts.

Protection Suggest change

9 draws, small to medium size cams and maybe some nuts.

Photos

loading