Tectonomagmatic
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Bryan Law, Greg Barnes, and George Ridgley, 2008/2009 |
Page Views: | 1,184 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Jun 27, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Tectonomagmatic is a good approach pitch to Five Ten, You Wuss. It is a long face climb with some classic Tuolumne knob and slab climbing that is mostly well protected but also features some good runouts to keep you excited. Rated 10b in the guidebook, we thought it was pretty hard for the grade. Start by climbing into the scoop, placing some gear and then clipping several bolts with some tricky and hard climbing about 1/3 up the pitch. Above, the difficulty eases as you continue clipping bolts. You finish at a ledge with a two bolt anchor down and right or a two bolt anchor up and left.
This route has a second pitch that was done by Bryan and George in October of 2009. There are at least 6 lead bolts on the second pitch and it may take some gear too. There is a bolted anchor at the end of the pitch. The route can be used as an approach to On the Lamb without crossing over to Five Ten, You Wuss.
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