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Routes in 4. Far Right (Warmup Area)
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Bolt Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bulge, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cups First T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deception S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drill and Repetition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoi Polloi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hook It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Blubber S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jam or Slam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Patti's Butt T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Superunknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Variation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,771 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Bryant on Jun 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
P1 (5.7, 60ft) - Run up to the first bolt, which is about 25 feet off the ground on the right-facing side of the corner just before it gets steep. As it gets steeper there is a second bolt in the steep, blocky section. As the pitch flattens out the easy crack could take a 4 or 5 cam or you can just run it out to the anchor, which is just to the right of a very obvious tree.
P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.
At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a little dirty. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.
P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...
[UPDATE: a significant amount of rock fell from the P3 corner in the Spring of 2019, ripping the "obvious tree" atop the first pitch from the wall. P3 is still climbable at ~5.6, but different! Rapping from the top of P2 is highly suggested. Everything else seems unchanged, except a pile of debris at the bottom of the route.]
P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.
Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.
P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.
At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a little dirty. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.
P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...
[UPDATE: a significant amount of rock fell from the P3 corner in the Spring of 2019, ripping the "obvious tree" atop the first pitch from the wall. P3 is still climbable at ~5.6, but different! Rapping from the top of P2 is highly suggested. Everything else seems unchanged, except a pile of debris at the bottom of the route.]
P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.
Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.
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