Born on the 4th of July
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Mark Anderson, May 2015 |
Page Views: | 2,443 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 12, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
The most radical free climb in Clear Creek Canyon-and perhaps the entire state-monkeys out three tiered roofs for a total of 30 feet of horizontal climbing. This gob smacking line culminates in a magnificent foray out and over the piercing visor that caps the right half of the Cave. To call this line improbable would be a massive understatement.
The line was rappelled, cleaned, and equipped over a 6-hour marathon session on July 4, 2014. The unbelievable steepness of the feature is outpaced only by the magnificent setting, some 800 feet above the river and dramatically exposed. These characteristics are matched by excellent, clean stone that provides remarkable jugs right where you need them.
The business is all horizontal, utilizing nearly every trick in the roof-climbers handbook (though surprisingly no mandatory kneebars). The climb begins with a short, vertical pillar to reach an eight-foot roof. A fingertip rail slashes across this feature, leading to a burly slap to jugs at the lip. From here, campus right along slopers, then rock up to an easy stance below the second roof. Balance over this obstacle, clip out the last roof, and chalk up one last time. Launch out the stunning, core-burning brim, climbing slightly downwards to reach the lip and a remarkable set of perfect jugs. Throw up a foot, slam in a bomber fingerlock, and mantel precariously onto the floating slab.
The line was rappelled, cleaned, and equipped over a 6-hour marathon session on July 4, 2014. The unbelievable steepness of the feature is outpaced only by the magnificent setting, some 800 feet above the river and dramatically exposed. These characteristics are matched by excellent, clean stone that provides remarkable jugs right where you need them.
The business is all horizontal, utilizing nearly every trick in the roof-climbers handbook (though surprisingly no mandatory kneebars). The climb begins with a short, vertical pillar to reach an eight-foot roof. A fingertip rail slashes across this feature, leading to a burly slap to jugs at the lip. From here, campus right along slopers, then rock up to an easy stance below the second roof. Balance over this obstacle, clip out the last roof, and chalk up one last time. Launch out the stunning, core-burning brim, climbing slightly downwards to reach the lip and a remarkable set of perfect jugs. Throw up a foot, slam in a bomber fingerlock, and mantel precariously onto the floating slab.
Location
Bot4oJ is the furthest right line in the cave, beginning from the far right end of the upper-right fixed line and climbing out the awe-inspiring visor. This route can be belayed from the stance just below The Bottleneck (poor), from a semi-hanging belay from a 1-bolt anchor (which can be backed up with finger-sized cams) at the end of the upper-right fixed line, or from a nice, flat stance at the far right end of the lower-right fixed line (aka Long Ledge). The latter is probably the best option. There is also an 8x2 ledge about 20 feet down and right from the routes first bolt that could potentially provide a nice stance (2-3 cams?), but it would be hard to get to.
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