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Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Cyanide Gully
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Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Day Glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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King of the Jungle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Semper Farcisimus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silverback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sympathy for the Grinder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Moore and Chance Traub |
| Page Views: | 1,211 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | The Real Battitude on Jun 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
p1. climb Zig Zag .10b/.11? Mega awesome mega sandbagged steep splitter though roofs!
p2. climb a few spooky but solid blocks off the belay into .10a fingers corner and stemming. continue past a ledge up a blank looking stem corner with just enough gear. At the top either exit out left in the #4s crack or walk your feet out the crack and bridge in the corner with small but secure micro nut protection to an awesome arete mantle to the anchor. 5.10c
P.3 5.6 climb straight up the slab avoiding bushes and munge for 15m to the base of a beautiful white corner. optional gear belay here or link..
p.4 money pitch. 5.11b. Climb the perfect hand crack in the corner stemming past a short blank section to large v slot roof. Jam straight in fingers out the roof with your head and back and make a wild exit to the chains. If "flashing" is a part of your vocab stop reading now and good luck.. but for those of us who dont give a shit... there is a secret 2 finger pocket for the left hand about 6 inches above the lip of the roof and is waaay over your head and behind you. feel around for this and make your exit out the roof and around the arete to the anchor. So cool!
! Important ! - once over to the anchor place a .5 camalot with a sling above the roof as a directional to give your follower a top rope on the wild roof exit or its an awful swing.
p.5 .11a, Step back out right using that .5 you just placed and jam one hard move .11a? to gain the final corner. climb a fist crack up the golden corner at 5.9 to the top. Most folks will probably want two #4's here but this is the only pitch where 2 are needed and there is other gear around. unfortunately the upper corner is a little mungier than it looks, but don't let that deter you.
Descent: rap route with one 70m. 2 raps back to the slab then i recommend following the Silverback extension anchors down. its a better rap line and allows you to get a top rope on some of those harder pitchs if your into that.
p2. climb a few spooky but solid blocks off the belay into .10a fingers corner and stemming. continue past a ledge up a blank looking stem corner with just enough gear. At the top either exit out left in the #4s crack or walk your feet out the crack and bridge in the corner with small but secure micro nut protection to an awesome arete mantle to the anchor. 5.10c
P.3 5.6 climb straight up the slab avoiding bushes and munge for 15m to the base of a beautiful white corner. optional gear belay here or link..
p.4 money pitch. 5.11b. Climb the perfect hand crack in the corner stemming past a short blank section to large v slot roof. Jam straight in fingers out the roof with your head and back and make a wild exit to the chains. If "flashing" is a part of your vocab stop reading now and good luck.. but for those of us who dont give a shit... there is a secret 2 finger pocket for the left hand about 6 inches above the lip of the roof and is waaay over your head and behind you. feel around for this and make your exit out the roof and around the arete to the anchor. So cool!
! Important ! - once over to the anchor place a .5 camalot with a sling above the roof as a directional to give your follower a top rope on the wild roof exit or its an awful swing.
p.5 .11a, Step back out right using that .5 you just placed and jam one hard move .11a? to gain the final corner. climb a fist crack up the golden corner at 5.9 to the top. Most folks will probably want two #4's here but this is the only pitch where 2 are needed and there is other gear around. unfortunately the upper corner is a little mungier than it looks, but don't let that deter you.
Descent: rap route with one 70m. 2 raps back to the slab then i recommend following the Silverback extension anchors down. its a better rap line and allows you to get a top rope on some of those harder pitchs if your into that.
Protection
This route has no bolts and at times it is a bit testier on the gear than other PC routes.
Rack:
1x 000 c3
2x 00c3- #4
micro nuts
Draws
1x 70m rope
Gear beta:
p1. a 3rd .4.5.75 might be nice
p2. Bring one #4 then thin crux takes the 00 C3 and I used 2 red (#1) bd nuts before the mantle- this crux can be avoided but shouldn't. a few medium offset aliens are also nice and a grey alien is a great to have for this pitch.
p5. two #4s
Rack:
1x 000 c3
2x 00c3- #4
micro nuts
Draws
1x 70m rope
Gear beta:
p1. a 3rd .4.5.75 might be nice
p2. Bring one #4 then thin crux takes the 00 C3 and I used 2 red (#1) bd nuts before the mantle- this crux can be avoided but shouldn't. a few medium offset aliens are also nice and a grey alien is a great to have for this pitch.
p5. two #4s
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