PRINT: Rock Climb 5.10 Fever, Northern Arizona

5.10 Fever

5.10+ PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 13 votes
FA: J.Boyd
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > San Francisco P… > Peaks Crag > Peaks Crag > N End

Description

Possibly the first completed route during the modern age of development at The Peaks...

Offers great crack climbing and fun movement in a large dihedral system right at the base of the entrance trail.

Unfortunately a party got the chop shop fever at some point and decided to unnecessarily chop some bolts making the start a little exciting.

It is possible to use some of the bolts that remain near although long runners will be necessary.

With a bit of hard looking you can find a small and very tricky nut placement that can (sort of) protect moves getting onto the bulge below main dihedral system.

3 stars after the fever sweats of the onsight...

Location

Start up terrain to the right of 'Black Swan'
Move into large dihedral system to the right.

Protection

Standard Rack
Bolts?
Runners

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA

As I recall, there was either a highball start more left, then moving right, then, later, a more direct 5.11- bolted version to this climb? Did the "direct" version get the chopsky? I recall it was Manny Rangel that bolted (or re-bolted) that direct start, or maybe he just told me about it while we were at the crag. Either way, for sustained, technical, and yet burly dihedral, this thing really rocked my world. What a fun climb! If you are feeling dialed, it will flow, and, if not, you will absolutely be working hard for the money! Great gear in the dihedral. Jul 16, 2015

Eric D
Gnarnia

5.10+

I didn't see any PG13 on this. Jul 26, 2015

Chris Kalman

5.11-

To start this pitch, you can easily and safely traverse in from Top Kill / Trust the Process. Three long runners will get you in to the gear-protected corner with minimal rope drag.

I agree with Eric D -- I thought the gear was good (small, but solid) the whole corner. That said, I would not recommend this pitch to someone with 5.10 fever. More like 5.11- fever. For reference, my partner and I climbed this immediately after Top Kill, and thought Top Kill was definitely easier. Aug 10, 2020