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Chasing Dragons
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick 2010 |
Page Views: | 6,879 total · 57/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
All routes left of Shaman School closed for Peregrine Falcons from April 1-August 31st, unless lifted sooner. Shaman School will remain open for climbing. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically April through early August).
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
Description
One of the more common uses of the phrase “chase the dragon“, eludes to the pursuit of an ever elusive, ultimate high. For most, this overhanging arête will leave you with an altered state of mind and if successful, a renewed love of the chase.
This line climbs the sweeping, angular prow two routes left of New River though it shares the initial start with Metro Line and New River. Climb a rampy weakness past three bolts, then start moving left to a good shake at the base of the steep arête, staying below the ledge. A few big pulls between perfect jugs sets you up for a series of boulder problems that incorporates both sides of the arête. A redpoint crux at the roof and clipping the anchors is a final whipping of the dragon's tail! Perhaps a hard onsight for the grade, especially if you time it wrong and get caught staring into the sun.
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