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Routes in 4. Dave's Wall
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Aguja Celo Rey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Sendero Diablo TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Estrellita TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fifty foot of love T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Las Chimuelas T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Libertad T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofy Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seven Pieces of Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sorry Mom TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thread the Gap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,355 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on May 14, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Fun (strenuous) moves over the roof -- almost indoor-style with jug holds, even two "handles" a bit higher up. More outdoorsy to first get to the roof.
Start on wide open book under the roof. Up that (perhaps easier to step left around a little ridge then up that) to grab the big "tongue" just below the left half of the roof. Up and over. Finish easy up to wide ledge.
? variation 1: The 2011 print guidebook hints that it might be possible to start up the ridge directly to the bottom of thin crack (or crimp rail?) to left of open book.
? variation 2 "Indirect" (5.9): Instead of grabbing the tongue, first step left across the rounded ridge to a thin crack, then up the crack and over the roof with (if you get them right) fun moves.
Start on wide open book under the roof. Up that (perhaps easier to step left around a little ridge then up that) to grab the big "tongue" just below the left half of the roof. Up and over. Finish easy up to wide ledge.
? variation 1: The 2011 print guidebook hints that it might be possible to start up the ridge directly to the bottom of thin crack (or crimp rail?) to left of open book.
? variation 2 "Indirect" (5.9): Instead of grabbing the tongue, first step left across the rounded ridge to a thin crack, then up the crack and over the roof with (if you get them right) fun moves.
Location
Below left side of obvious 2-foot-deep roof about 15 feet up, which has Thread the Gap at its right end. A rounded ridge extends down below this end of the roof, with a thin roughly-vertical crack on left side of ridge.
- - > see on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
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