Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Mike Endicott |
Page Views: | 819 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | George Bracksieck on May 3, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Climb a steep, narrow slab past two bolts, and make a long reach to a shallow pocket (crux). After clipping the third bolt, climb up into a shallow, crumbling, right-facing dihedral. Place gear ASAP. The rock and the gear improve as one climbs higher. There are some moderate runouts on moderate rock.
A variation moves left from the crux, then climbs moderate rock, rejoining the main line at the base of the headwall. A connection can be made from the first part of Easy Street, diagonaling right to join this variation.
Bolts five through eight protect the strenuous tango along and beyond the left-slanting quartz dike (second crux) to the top of the headwall.
Mike envisioned the route and was first to toprope it and lead it. He placed the bolts, which was also a first for him. His fellow toproping adventurers on April 29 were Leo Paik and GB. On May 1, GB was bolting supplier, advisor, and assistant. On May 3, Ross Swanson engineered the second lead.
A variation moves left from the crux, then climbs moderate rock, rejoining the main line at the base of the headwall. A connection can be made from the first part of Easy Street, diagonaling right to join this variation.
Bolts five through eight protect the strenuous tango along and beyond the left-slanting quartz dike (second crux) to the top of the headwall.
Mike envisioned the route and was first to toprope it and lead it. He placed the bolts, which was also a first for him. His fellow toproping adventurers on April 29 were Leo Paik and GB. On May 1, GB was bolting supplier, advisor, and assistant. On May 3, Ross Swanson engineered the second lead.
Protection
Stick-clip the first of eight bolts. A standard rack will be necessary to protect between the third and fourth (or maybe fifth) bolts, The anchor bolts atop Easy Street are the only in situ anchors and are about 15 feet behind the finish, on a big ledge. Belay the second up, then rappel with a single 70m rope to the ground. To toprope the pitch, extend the anchors with 15-20 feet of sling. A #2 Camalot can be used (to the west and down, toward the lip) to supplement the anchor bolts.
7 Comments