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Routes in Kloof Alcove
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Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kloof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycra Clad Donkey (submitted as Iron Monkey) T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jim Erikson, Dave Erikson, Jimmy G. |
| Page Views: | 1,218 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Jimmy G. is a short but good pitch with solid rock and technical moves and jamming. It is perhaps a little harder for people with large hands.
The route rises up a few feet on a face to intersect a finger to hand crack in a corner... that leans left 45 degrees. This route climbs like something 1/2 way between a normal climb and a traverse under a roof. Cruxes come whenever the footholds get scarce.
Find your way up to a very water polished slab, and squeak your way up that for 20' to a small ledge. Another 10' of easier scramble will take you to the base of a large pine, which is at the start of the route.
Crimp a few holds to reach a seam (protection here), and then make a move up and left to get into the obvious diagonal crack that runs up and left for several body lengths. This protects well every few feet on middle-sized Aliens and hand-sized cams. A crux comes just past halfway through where the crack changes sizes at a pod and feet are scarce and then again getting around the corner of the roof.
Once on top, go back to the second tree to belay. This is large and has a few fixed slings.
One can rap from this tree, though it should have a link added (no ring/ling present right now), or continue on Weevil's Walk (recommended, since you are there).
The route rises up a few feet on a face to intersect a finger to hand crack in a corner... that leans left 45 degrees. This route climbs like something 1/2 way between a normal climb and a traverse under a roof. Cruxes come whenever the footholds get scarce.
Find your way up to a very water polished slab, and squeak your way up that for 20' to a small ledge. Another 10' of easier scramble will take you to the base of a large pine, which is at the start of the route.
Crimp a few holds to reach a seam (protection here), and then make a move up and left to get into the obvious diagonal crack that runs up and left for several body lengths. This protects well every few feet on middle-sized Aliens and hand-sized cams. A crux comes just past halfway through where the crack changes sizes at a pod and feet are scarce and then again getting around the corner of the roof.
Once on top, go back to the second tree to belay. This is large and has a few fixed slings.
One can rap from this tree, though it should have a link added (no ring/ling present right now), or continue on Weevil's Walk (recommended, since you are there).
Location
Jimmy G. lies alone on a small section of rock below the South side of the Long John Tower.
It can be used for as an approach pitch to reach Weevil's Walk, another pretty good climb.
The approach is a bit slick and probably not the best for a beginning climber, but this is not a "date climb" anyway.
Per Dave Holliday: an easy way to get to the route is to climb both pitches of Washington Irving. From the cable anchor atop the second pitch, do an easy traverse over to the tree. Another way is to climb both pitches of Chianti or Break on Through, go up and over a ridge, and then scramble down to the tree.
We descended by downclimbing an easy, wide crack from the belay to a large tree with slings. Rappel from that tree down slabs to a good ledge about 20 feet below the start of the route. Scramble back to the top of Washington Irving, and do two rappels to the ground. One might also be able to scramble up slabs from the belay spot, traverse over to the left, and downclimb back to the starting ledge.
It can be used for as an approach pitch to reach Weevil's Walk, another pretty good climb.
The approach is a bit slick and probably not the best for a beginning climber, but this is not a "date climb" anyway.
Per Dave Holliday: an easy way to get to the route is to climb both pitches of Washington Irving. From the cable anchor atop the second pitch, do an easy traverse over to the tree. Another way is to climb both pitches of Chianti or Break on Through, go up and over a ridge, and then scramble down to the tree.
We descended by downclimbing an easy, wide crack from the belay to a large tree with slings. Rappel from that tree down slabs to a good ledge about 20 feet below the start of the route. Scramble back to the top of Washington Irving, and do two rappels to the ground. One might also be able to scramble up slabs from the belay spot, traverse over to the left, and downclimb back to the starting ledge.
Protection
Protection from 0.25" to 2.5" with an option for a larger piece (fist-sized) just prior to topping out.
Per Dave Holliday: the protection is much better than it looks from the base of the route. An anchor can be made at a small tree and backed up with a #4 Camalot and a large stopper (other combinations of gear would probably work as well).
Per Dave Holliday: the protection is much better than it looks from the base of the route. An anchor can be made at a small tree and backed up with a #4 Camalot and a large stopper (other combinations of gear would probably work as well).
Photos
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