Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 1,424 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ryder Stroud on Apr 17, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route is full-on for its first half before it even considers giving you a breather. This route will also vary in difficulty based on how big your fingers are. Those with skinny fingers may find this much more cruiser, while those with 'meat paws' may find it ridiculous...

Start 8 feet right of Flight of the Locusts and 6 feet left of The Sphinx in a thin and steep corner crack. Climb the pedestal and begin stemming (a few committing moves off the pedestal if you're not careful) and skinny jamming your way up the crack until some pods/discontinuous crack appear on your left. Creatively weave your way through these two cracks. The crack will thin ever so slightly and the left crack will disappear as you reach a small stance where the crack widens. From here, hold off the fatigue and climb the slightly wider/easier crack to a semi-decent stance. A few more moves above the pod will yield a bunch of ledges and the chains.

Location Suggest change

Right of Flight of the Locusts and left of The Sphinx

Protection Suggest change

- 0-1 TCUs (green, yellow, red)
- One .1 X4
- One .2 X4
- Two .3s
- Two .4s
- Three or four .5s
- Two .75s
- One 1

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