Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Van Betten and Nick Nordblom, 1987 |
Page Views: | 1,631 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Cunning Linguist on Apr 14, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Good climbing, loose rock and runouts on the first pitch. Between the start of Sand Felipe and Triassic is a classic looking made layback. Up this (large cam helpful) to some loose rock and a choice between two cracks. Start on the left crack, heading right at a pro bolt. Sustained climbing with good pro leads straight up past a second bolt to the shared anchor above the crux pitch of Triassic. The second pitch takes the left variation crack after sharing a start and bolt with Triassic, rejoins that route at a large ledge and rappel with 2 ropes or continue up Triassic.
Location
The left facing lie back corner 15 feet left of Triassic's starting corner. Looks steep, thin, and fun, which it is.
Protection
The original pro bolts on this pitch date to the aid FA of Triassic, these pitches were the direct line that was nailed before the pitch to the right was established free. Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton nailed this up in '72 and lefty couple of quarter inchers with Dolt hangers. Route takes good pro wired and active from the middle up, hollow and funky pro can be found at the start for quite a ways, hence the R rating. Standard rack, doubles in small. Long pitch so plenty of runners. Offset wires probably helpful.
Photos
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