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> S Platte
> Staunton SP
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> Meadow Dome
> Tan Corridor
> Upper Tan Corridor
Crushing My Gear to Climb
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 6
votes
Routes in Upper Tan Corridor
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4 Finger Discount T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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80 Grit S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Altruist, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black and Tan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chalkdust Tourture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crushing My Gear to Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dark Knight S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ddong Chim! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Do The Kegel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Function Over Fashion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ginger Snap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jerry the Gnome S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Muricuh S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Named, No. 39 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Opportunity Missed S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Rain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Opportunist, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reef On It! S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rolling Black Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Seasoned Forgiving T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Three Bite Burrito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tickle My Blossom T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Turkey Time S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Welcome to Staunton T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Stricker & Pat Peddy, 7/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,622 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Anunta Anunta on Apr 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
I am adding this climb to complete the set and to add info. Climb into a left-facing corner onto a small pedestal, then continue to follow the corner and up the face and over the bulge.
The route is a bit dirty, but the pro is there when you need it. This makes a good beginner lead. It gets sun in the afternoon. You can also make it a short top rope by setting a directional below the bulge after anchoring in at Chalk Dust Torture.
The route is a bit dirty, but the pro is there when you need it. This makes a good beginner lead. It gets sun in the afternoon. You can also make it a short top rope by setting a directional below the bulge after anchoring in at Chalk Dust Torture.
Location
In the Tan Corridor, start to the left Chalk Dust Torture (the last fully bolted line in the Tan Corridor) in a rock scar. It is #39 in Fixed Pin Staunton State Park book.
I wound up downclimbing and traversing over to the anchors over Chalk Dust Torture to rappel down (not recommended). After looking through the guidebook, I now realize it's a walk off - walk north along the ridge until the rock fades into the hillside, then loop back down through Tan Corridor.
I wound up downclimbing and traversing over to the anchors over Chalk Dust Torture to rappel down (not recommended). After looking through the guidebook, I now realize it's a walk off - walk north along the ridge until the rock fades into the hillside, then loop back down through Tan Corridor.
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