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The Whiskey Bottle
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
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Routes in Three Tower Buttress
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Whiskey Bottle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Indian, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 PG13 |
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Cowboy, Mutton Bustin', The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Dawn of an Age T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unkown |
| Page Views: | 867 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Widen on Apr 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Reach the notch between the Whiskey Bottle and the Indian via 1. a hand to ow crack (looks 5.10-ish) on the south side; 2. a scramble from the north side; or 3. rap from the top of the Indian. The south side crack looks best, and will be the only quality climbing you'll do (see below).
Creatively build an anchor on the notch, step out on the south face, and climb a mostly thin crack to a ledge below the summit block. The rock in this whole section is BAD, and there are 5.10 moves with pro in sandy cracks. Might be partly aidable. From the ledge, clip a bolt, then do a couple 5.11 moves to better holds and the top - OR, stick clip the anchor first for a TR (which we did).
Creatively build an anchor on the notch, step out on the south face, and climb a mostly thin crack to a ledge below the summit block. The rock in this whole section is BAD, and there are 5.10 moves with pro in sandy cracks. Might be partly aidable. From the ledge, clip a bolt, then do a couple 5.11 moves to better holds and the top - OR, stick clip the anchor first for a TR (which we did).
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