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Irie

5.7, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 227 votes
FA: Josh Pollock and Steve Grigel
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Tiers of Zion > C. Lower Tier > A. E Wall

Description

This route is not very difficult, but it is fun. The start is fairly slabby and, it is a little steeper near its end. The most difficult move is near the middle, but there are good holds throughout the climb. It looks like the first ascenders cleaned off a lot of lichen. The climb is fairly clean and angles to the left for the 1st three quarters or so.

Location

This is the furthest left (east) route on the wall. Use the anchor to descend. This route is to the left of a large pine tree, and there is a gully in front of the route.

Protection

Now there are seven bolts and a two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. All the bolts were replaced/upgraded to glue-ins in 2024.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The climb.  The rope is hanging down from the anchor but, the climb angles left to right at first.
[Hide Photo] The climb. The rope is hanging down from the anchor but, the climb angles left to right at first.
Looking West up Clear Creek Canyon. Quite a view from the top.
[Hide Photo] Looking West up Clear Creek Canyon. Quite a view from the top.
Kevin heading up.
[Hide Photo] Kevin heading up.
The route with quickdraws and a rope to show the route.
[Hide Photo] The route with quickdraws and a rope to show the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] There is a fun (but entirely optional) hueco to the left of the second bolt. Mar 30, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I would like to replace the lefthand anchor bolt at the top of this route. It has been retightened (as have all the bolts on Irie as of 6/19/2015) and is safe enough for now, but the hanger is receiving leverage on a bit of a protrusion. I will post here when I have been able to get up there and fix it.
UPDATE 10/24/2015: the lefthand anchor bolt has now been replaced, and both bolts now have chains. Enjoy. Jun 20, 2015
Carl H.
Connecticut
[Hide Comment] Josh, thanks for the quick checking, tightening, and posting on this. My son and I climbed this on the 15th and were concerned, especially after witnessing the 1st bolt falling out on the 5.10b nearby. Jun 20, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Carl, I should say that I have finished checking the other routes with five-piece bolts on the Lower Tiers, and all others were adequately tight. The bolt that slid out on the other route (Lyin' Like a Lion) was in a unique position - the first bolt on a route with an overhang directly above plus the bolt immediately below a challenging crux. As a result, I believe this bolt was receiving frequent pulling and loading from different positions (including outward and upward) in rapid succession, and this contributed to its spinning loose more quickly than others of its kind would. After inspecting the others that were placed around the same time period, I am confident about them once again. Jun 27, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The lefthand anchor bolt has been replaced as of Oct. 24, 2015, and both bolts now have chains. All hardware is looking safe, and the base area for the entire east wall has received significant stabilizing and erosion control, thanks to all the volunteer work from climbers and JeffCo Open Space staff over the 2015 season. Thanks for all the hard work on behalf of the community, everyone! Oct 25, 2015
Paul Deger
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, short route in the shade. Lichen has been well cleaned if you stay along bolt line. Some questionable flakes - buddy on lead had one break off in his hand. Jun 12, 2016
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is the most fun 5.7 I think I have ever climbed! The moves are interesting and varied, but the holds are great. Bolt lengths are short, so it's super safe, and I think this route would make a great first lead for a 5.7 climber. Sep 12, 2016
[Hide Comment] Watch out for the loose right hanger on the anchor at the top of Irie. It's not bad yet, but it is getting loose as of dusk on 7/7/17. Jul 7, 2017
Buck Beymer
Denver, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Like most of this crag, expect thin slabby moves. There are a few really fun moves though. Sep 9, 2019
Peter Thomas
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Added Mussy hooks to the anchor. Sep 11, 2019
Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for all the great work adding lowering hooks to the high-traffic lines at the Lower Tiers, Peter. It's a great contribution to the community and much appreciated! Oct 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Not bad, a little thin in spots. Something to do while waiting. Apr 30, 2021
Dan Sarich
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] First lead post distal bicep tear surgery: great route to get the arm moving again. No pain at all. Nearly 5 months with no climbing. All smiles coming down off this route. Aug 19, 2021
Josh
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] April 2024: the first bolt has been replaced by two new ones, to mitigate the high first clip. The base area trail work completed in 2023 by BCC (thank you!) lowered the start somewhat, though the first clip was always a bit high. Now it should feel a bit mellower to lead up to the first bolt from directly below and definitely mellower to come in from the left if needed. The second bolt was needed to avoid groundfall potential between the first and (formerly) second clip. The route description above has been edited to reflect seven bolts, not six. Enjoy. Apr 12, 2024