PRINT: Rock Climb Three Little Birds, Golden

Three Little Birds

5.9, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3 from 355 votes
FA: Adam Huxley
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Tiers of Zion > C. Lower Tier > C. Middle & W Walls

Description

This is a fun route. I don't often think sport routes are "classic", but it is rated so in the guidebook, and I agree. It is fun pulling the small roof at the start. This is the crux. The holds are good here. Above you mostly climb a thin crack. You could place small cams if you wanted, between bolts, but they are not necessary. There are face holds to be found as well. This is a really fun climb.

Location

This route is the furthest right sport route at the crag. There is a fallen tree right at the start which is off the trail in front of the climb. Descend from the anchor at the top.

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katie mid-climb with the canyon in the background.

West Wall topo photo.

Katie Kelble (10 yrs old) pulling through the crux on Three Little Birds (Oct 2014).

Katie Kelble on Three Little Birds - Oct. 2014.

Unknown climber about midway up.

The climb.

Adam, 7/13/2013.

An excellent route well worth doing.

Ross getting ready to pull the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Bandos
CO

Great climb. I love how the though provoking slab above is continuous and not grid bolted. Bolted well, keeps it fun. Apr 5, 2015

Matt Pierce
Poncha Springs, CO

5.9+

Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam. Apr 12, 2015

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

5.8+

Be careful using some of the thinner flakes. They flex and make it feel like too much outward pressure with provide air time. One at the lip readily wiggles. May 1, 2015

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.9

I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area. May 11, 2015

Tombo
Boulder

5.8

I had the beta for the roof, so it was pretty straightforward, probably 5.9 if you read it wrong. The upper slab is a blast, the bolt spacing helped the fun factor. Jul 4, 2016

chase martin
Denver CO

One of, if not the best route at this crag, the roof has some fun moves on it, and it's well-bolted. After that, it's some fun, crimpy moves until the last 10-15 feet of the climb when it turns into 5.6 until the anchors. Overall, it's an awesome route! Nov 10, 2016

Connor Wilkinson

5th bolt is falling out - the nut may just need to be tightened, but the bolt is spinning pretty badly, and the nut can be turned by hand. Pretty unsafe for right now - if someone with a tool or drill is heading that way any time soon, please address. Jul 7, 2017

Trace Teboda
Lakewood, CO

5.9-

Led this route yesterday (6/27/18) and had a blast. This is a great climb with a fun start and slabby middle. To my surprise, Adam Huxley and Chuck Fitch were climbing "Old Pirates" right next to us! It was a honor to meet them. They answered all our questions and were very nice. They explained to us how they came up with the route names (Bob Marley) and some fun back stories. It was one of my favorite days climbing, and I will never forget the experience. Jun 28, 2018

Curtis Beimborn
Boulder, CO

Super fun climb. The anchor bolts are spaced pretty far apart, so make sure to bring a long sling or cordelette to build your anchor. Don't be expecting Mussy hooks like all the routes on the East Wall and Recessed Slab have. Aug 27, 2019

Andres Fernandez
Boulder, CO

5.9

This was a fun climb and a good 5.9. There are a few variations to pull the roof. Spacing of bolts past the 3rd might necessitate a couple of cams around 0.3 to 0.5. Apr 28, 2020

David Heath
Arlington, VA

Bolts 3 & 4 were spinning. Hand tightened. Fun route! Jun 17, 2020

Rex Tien
Denver, CO

Definitely clip the second bolt before trying to pull the lip, otherwise you might end up upside down 3 ft from the ground with some sweet rope burn like me! Also buy your belayer a beer :) Jun 23, 2021

Wild Willy

As previously mentioned, it goes on gear. If leading it this way, make sure to have an attentive belayer, because if you blow the crux, the first placement will just barely keep you off the ground. Great route! Jul 12, 2021

Dan Sarich
Denver, CO

First 5.9 after distal bicep tear surgery. Roof move was a little tweaky on the arm, but I worked around it by changing my beta and coming into a sidepull with the right arm. Aug 19, 2021

Aaron C
Denver, CO

5.9

Love the route. The bolts above the roof are a touch runout. As Andres notes, a 0.4 and 0.5 can stitch it up. Sep 16, 2022

KC Jones

5.9

As of at least 17 Sept 2022 (last time I was out there), the good juggy hold next to the 5th bolt was really loose and is likely to dislodge in the not-too-distant future. Since that bolt is a little runout, it makes for a more awkward clipping position (not necessarily more difficult, per se, but definitely not as near to the bolt as one might like when you’re 10 feet above the last clip). Sep 18, 2022