Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Stephens, Ardila 2015 GU |
Page Views: | 2,652 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Dustin Stephens on Mar 14, 2015 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
pitch 1 (11a/b): Start up the right-facing flake system and trend right up thin finger locks and horizontals as soon as reasonable. Bomber but spicy gear with a short crux. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge shared with the old route Thunderbolt Mountain (5.4, FA Erik Farley), which continues up the initial flake system to the left then trends back to the right at the top. A 3 or 4 camalot is useful to move the belay a bit further right beneath the base of pitch 2.
pitch 2 (12b): The obvious spectacular finger crack system splitting the upper orange headwall. Straightforward 11- on hand and finger-sized gear leads to a decent rest before a relentless section of off-balance finger locking and smearing begins as the crack doglegs right. Plug a bomber tiny cam or two (blue/black aliens) then hurl yourself at the airy crux V4 boulder problem where the crack stops. A 1/2 to 3/4" horizontal eventually appears to protect the final run to the top.
pitch 2 (12b): The obvious spectacular finger crack system splitting the upper orange headwall. Straightforward 11- on hand and finger-sized gear leads to a decent rest before a relentless section of off-balance finger locking and smearing begins as the crack doglegs right. Plug a bomber tiny cam or two (blue/black aliens) then hurl yourself at the airy crux V4 boulder problem where the crack stops. A 1/2 to 3/4" horizontal eventually appears to protect the final run to the top.
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