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Cosmic Intelligence

5.12d, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 17 votes
FA: Jimmy Carse
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > El Fin de Semana (Wee…

Description

An amazing climb on the right side of the wall. Start on steep five ten climbing to a ledge and rest. The next fifty feet are the business. Compression style on dueling seams. There isn't a distinct crux just very sustained v4 moves. Get a decent rest then finish on tricky 5.11 climbing to the anchor. A great climb and unique style for Potrero

Protection

12 bolts plus anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Emma Kowal midway up the climb at night!
[Hide Photo] Emma Kowal midway up the climb at night!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brice Niemond
Spokane Wa
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Really fun! It's my first of the grade. I think it felt hard enough to be 13a but that's just my opinion. Having not yet tried 12d its hard for me to say definitely what it goes at. It felt much MUCH harder than the 12c's I have done in other regions and im in better sport shape now than I was when I did those. Grades don't make the climb though!! This thing is a BANGER! The bottom is honestly kind of garbage climbing but once the crux starts, the climb is excellent from then on. Jan 4, 2019
Briana Arlene
Colorado
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Really great climb that should get more attention! Head up a double ramp and then get ready for powerful and sustained compression moves that don’t let up for quite a while. Feels like wrangling an invisible tufa! Another 12- redpoint crux protects the finish.

On the fence as to whether this is hard 12d or soft 13a. I had to make extra moves in several sections and clip from worse stances than two taller friends. Definitely upped the difficulty a bit for me. Even so, I think 12d is the more appropriate grade. Jan 15, 2023
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb, definitely a lot of compression and room for sneaky toe and heel hooks.

Beta: Up to first ramp is chill. Pull on to a high left good foot and work your way up. Move up the ramp a bit. Pull onto face and start doing compression moves. Keep working that right foot up high. Halfway through the compression moves there’s a hard clip. Probably would be ideal to stay low and clip high for this one. 3/4 of the way up there’s a little cave thing you can kind of get a hand jam in. I think right hand. And then a little farther in and up right there’s some jug-like features. You can get some kind of kneebar in here I think. Look for feet to the left here. There’s a lot. Finish on smallish holds. Should probably clip from a flatish hold on the right of the anchors. Feb 9, 2023