Type: Sport, Mixed, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: First tr'd by James Loveridge. Equipped and FA by Dave Rone. Nate Erickson, Kris Gorny, first and second onsights.
Page Views: 957 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Jan 19, 2015
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A LOT of loose blocks and flakes were removed from this line, but as the name implies, you won't find bomber laser-cut slots, cracks, and edges. Although very little came off during its first three leads, there are some holds and features that will succumb to gravity. Work your way carefully through the flakes, holes, and edges, and you'll find fun, varied climbing on rock that improves as you get higher, and cruxy as you get alongside the ice dagger.

Of course some years, there will be more or less ice, and I suspect that the route will be harder without the ice. There are bolts all the way to the top so it can be climbed with no ice.

The name is inspired partly by the characteristics of the route, but also by the off-road ditch ride I had as a result of nodding off on the way home. Got lucky on that I'll tell ya.

Location Suggest change

The route start is about half-way between Ledaig'er and Reefer Madness, the bolt line will be obvious. Rappel or lower from the fixed anchor at the back of the ledge at the top.

Protection Suggest change

12 bolts (all in very solid rock) and screws for the ice, then go to the rappel anchors high on the back wall of the big ledge at the top.

Photos

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