PRINT: Rock Climb Heinous Cling Start, Smith Rock

Heinous Cling Start

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 318 votes
FA: Alan Watts (1984)
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

If you're going all the way, check out the full Heinous Cling. For most of us, the fun will stop at the first anchor.

Begin up a seam and pockets with an optional gear placement (BD 0.4 or 0.5) in the horizontal crack. Continue up pockets and good holds. Manage your pump in preparation for more difficulties prior to reaching the final bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to fixed anchor. Please do not toprope through the fixed carabiners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Simon on Heinous Cling Start

Right to Left: Heinous Cling, Darkness at Noon, Chain Reaction, Dreamin'

Photo by Scott Waeschle

That feeling you get when you pull the crux and get the hero jug

Max crimp on "Heinous Cling Start"

Much welcomed jug after the crux

different perspective of a popular route

Heinous Cling

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Westby
Portland, OR

5.12a

First 12a at Smith Rock! Hard moves above your bolts make this climb exciting all the way through. All of the falls are clean as can be, so get after it!

I compiled some footage of my attempts here: youtube.com/watch?v=YCfgAGm… Sep 16, 2020

Ryder Stroud
Seattle, WA

Excellent, technical face climbing the entire way. This thing is bolted for maximum excitement, so be prepared to try hard in the crux with your bolt healthily beneath you! Getting up to the exit move and the following bolt will keep you engaged the whole time until you make it to the chains.

All this being said, the falls from the crux are clean (if long). I found that one out first hand on more than one occasion! If the distance between bolts at the crux spooks you for the redpoint go, it is very possible to get up and hang the draws and extend the draw above the crux to reach into the upper 1/3 of the crux. Jun 23, 2022

Paul P
Bend

5.11b

I think I've done this route at least 50 times, one of my favorite single pitch routes anywhere. All the falls on it are safe.

Beta from a few years back :)
youtube.com/watch?v=Vf8BjF2… Dec 20, 2022

Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ

I used to watch people climb this route while guiding folks on Rope-de-dope. On multiple occasions I watched people stick the crux rail, only to realize they had to mantle and stand up to clip the next draw. Epic down climbing/whipping ensued. At one point I saw people putting a full 4 ft runner on the bolt above the crux so they could clip it in a more convenient location. However you do it, it's a great route, just know you're providing entertainment for the folks watching with binoculars. Sep 26, 2023