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Al Borde de la Discordia
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Pontoriero, Fiorenza, Manoni |
Page Views: | 1,136 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | claytown on Dec 22, 2014 |
Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
An awesome 5 pitch route on good granite that combines cracks, slabs and blocky roof climbing.
P1) 6a, 55m. Start up a low angle crack then step left past a bolt into a blocky roof section. Exit right past another bolt to a dihedral and finish at a 2 bolt anchor.
P2) 6a+, 40m. Bouldery move to start, then follow 3 or 4 bolts up excellent climbing on a beautiful face. Climb a dihedral to its end, then step left and pass another 3 bolts of slab climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. Excellent!
P3) 6a, 20-30m. Clip a bolt off the belay and do some slab moves then step left. Climb through a blocky roof (I went around left then back right). Get some good finger gear and then climb a bit until you clip a bolt on the slab (you don't want to fall going for that bolt, you can get some marginal tiny gear right before that move). 2 bolt anchor, semi-hanging belay.
P4/5) Two pitches of 5.9 up the faces above to the forested ledge. Anchors are equipped to rap the route.
P1) 6a, 55m. Start up a low angle crack then step left past a bolt into a blocky roof section. Exit right past another bolt to a dihedral and finish at a 2 bolt anchor.
P2) 6a+, 40m. Bouldery move to start, then follow 3 or 4 bolts up excellent climbing on a beautiful face. Climb a dihedral to its end, then step left and pass another 3 bolts of slab climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. Excellent!
P3) 6a, 20-30m. Clip a bolt off the belay and do some slab moves then step left. Climb through a blocky roof (I went around left then back right). Get some good finger gear and then climb a bit until you clip a bolt on the slab (you don't want to fall going for that bolt, you can get some marginal tiny gear right before that move). 2 bolt anchor, semi-hanging belay.
P4/5) Two pitches of 5.9 up the faces above to the forested ledge. Anchors are equipped to rap the route.
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