Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Drew Spaulding with Dan Hackett, December, 13 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,390 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Drew Spaulding on Dec 19, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Rosy I is a new line that I spent a lot of time cleaning so that it climbs safely and so that solid gear placements can be found. It crosses a few routes and shares some of "Vertical Smile" and the ending with the Slimy Spoon's "Fork Finish".
Pitch 1: start in the corner system just up hill of the Slimy Spoon's start and just downhill of the "Slime Monster" overhang. An interesting(5.8) start with tricky gear leads to a long 5.7 runout. Move left to cross the Slime Monster and climb the steep, blocky face out left(5.8) below Slime Monster's upper roof. Step up on the Slimy Spoon's traversing ledge and bust out to the right on beautiful face edges for a long, runout 5.7+ section to gain the thin crack above. Belay at the base of the classic Slimy Spoon's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: step out right as for "Vertical Smile" but instead power up and left to gain the diagonal system (5.9) that takes some good gear. Now you make wild moves to gain the arete that is formed by the Slimy Spoon's dihedral. Balancy and exciting moves on the arete bring you up to the Vertical Smile crack for 10'. You can choose to finish numerous ways. I like to climb out left to finish with the "Fork Finish" which puts you right at the summit of the "Lower Ramp"!
This is a perfect position to continue up toward Rosy Crucifixion and its neighbors....
Pitch 1: start in the corner system just up hill of the Slimy Spoon's start and just downhill of the "Slime Monster" overhang. An interesting(5.8) start with tricky gear leads to a long 5.7 runout. Move left to cross the Slime Monster and climb the steep, blocky face out left(5.8) below Slime Monster's upper roof. Step up on the Slimy Spoon's traversing ledge and bust out to the right on beautiful face edges for a long, runout 5.7+ section to gain the thin crack above. Belay at the base of the classic Slimy Spoon's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: step out right as for "Vertical Smile" but instead power up and left to gain the diagonal system (5.9) that takes some good gear. Now you make wild moves to gain the arete that is formed by the Slimy Spoon's dihedral. Balancy and exciting moves on the arete bring you up to the Vertical Smile crack for 10'. You can choose to finish numerous ways. I like to climb out left to finish with the "Fork Finish" which puts you right at the summit of the "Lower Ramp"!
This is a perfect position to continue up toward Rosy Crucifixion and its neighbors....
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