The Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Rusty Baillie and Steve McGee 1994 |
Page Views: | 2,472 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Steve McGee on Dec 13, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Follow the line of weakness on the south face. Multiple options exist to gain the limestone band. We used a right facing corner. Found no fixed anchors at first belay but others were well equipped.
I'll leave it to the first ascent party to comment on grades for each pitch, if they choose to. The overall grade should be taken as a loose guideline.
Bring imagination and a sense of adventure and you will be rewarded.
P1 - Gain a spacious ledge on the limestone band. Route climbs from the saddle to a short limestone corner. 5.7-5.9
P1a - Move belay left to the ledge below the chimney. 4th class.
P2 - Climb the bottomless chimney past a bolt then traverse left to a small stance with fixed anchor. 5.9
P3 - Step left then climb cracks and face to summit. Three bolts. Optional belay 30 feet below summit. 510
Rap the route with two ropes.
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