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High Noon
Easy 5th AI3 Steep Snow,
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), Grade III,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
Oregon
> Oregon Volcanoes
> (E) Three Siste…
> Broken Top
Description
The most direct established route to the summit from the Crook Cirque crater. This route climbs steep (40-50 degree) snow for several hundred feet before tackling a some steep rime ice and/or mixed ground to the summit.
This route is south facing in a south facing bowl and as such gets a lot of sun. It is prone to avalanches and may have nasty breakable crust on unconsolidated waist deep powder even once the slope steepens to 50 degrees. Know the conditions, get in position early and climb it fast.
Location
Straight up the south face, starting on the steep snow field that splits the face.
Protection
pickets and maybe some passive pro, but this rock is not what you would call solid, even by Oregon standards
![High Noon (red) and the Eleven O'clock Gully (yellow) on the south face of Broken Top]()
[Hide Photo] High Noon (red) and the Eleven O'clock Gully (yellow) on the south face of Broken Top
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