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Velvet Elvis
5.12a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 7. Lower Cathed…
> Mecca
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Stellar climbing through the first ~8 bolts at around 11a brings you to a very thin crux section before you get to the last bolt. After that the route takes some finger to medium sized gear for 20 feet through some heavily lichened flakes to an anchor with a red sling (visible from the ground). The route changes its character a lot after the 11a part with a hard slab crux and I think would be a lot better if it had an intermediate anchor. Retro anchor anyone?
Location
20 feet right from the start of Giblit and Beggar's Buttress.
Protection
9 bolts, a few small to medium cams.
Luckily, my friend had just finished climbing sub-mission and I swung into submission and used his rope to climb the second pitch. Because of that I was able to retrieve all of my draws on this climb.
Maybe I totally missed the anchor, but I didn't see anything around. Heads up. Dec 13, 2015
San Francisco, CA
Merced