PRINT: Rock Climb Mechanical Advantage, Yosemite National Park

Mechanical Advantage

5.12a PG13, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 10 votes
FA: Kevin Thaw ?
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 7. Lower Cathed… > Mecca

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Description

Sporty thin face leads through 4 bolts of not-too-hard climbing to a baffling boulder problem at the 5th bolt. This sideways press move on tiny footholds feels quite height-dependent and very hard for the grade. An old hangerless bolt stud is in the crux area, but I think is not necessary.

Location

Starts about 10 feet left of "Mecca Lite", ends a few feet left of it on the same ledge. Both anchors are within reach of each other, so Mechanical Advantage can be top roped after leading Mecca Lite.

Protection

5 bolts to two cold shuts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Conor Clarke
St. Louis, MO

Great little climb with a nice, tricky boulder problem at the top. If you're a little freaked out by the distance between the bolts (I was!), a good option might be to lead Mecca Lite, tension over to the anchors for this thing, and then lower--hanging both a quickdraw and a double-length sling on some of the bolts. (I think bolts three and the second to last bolt are the ones where this would make most sense?) This would reduce some of the runouts over the low-angle terrain. Oct 19, 2019

tallmark515

Although some of the bolts are spaced far apart, the climbing between them is easy and secure. The crux is tricky but very safe. If you prefer additional security, the anchor can be extended protecting the final mantle. Dec 16, 2019

Patsy
Merced

I looked at this yesterday and it seemed like there was a hanger missing from the last bolt. Sep 24, 2021