To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
NW Ridge
5.8+ PG13,
Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.5 from 13
votes
FA: Bob Rears - 1964
California
> Northeast Calif…
> Castle Crags
> Castle Dome
Description
I climbed this route with Grover Shipman who has a guide book published called "Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing" that has proven more than useful. This route was one of the best I had done in the area. It was exposed, scenic, a mix of shade and sun. And some of the scariest rock I have climbed on(though nothing blew out or fell so that was nice) the route starts out with a few exposed moves on pretty solid rock, which was nice because the first placement was 15 feet up. shortly after that you get to a belay next to a small tree. next pitch works up a large slab and through some loose rock to a good area for a cam nest. next is the no reverse traverse which felt about 5.6 or 5.5 which came as a surprise because most guide books said 5.0(perhaps we were off route)the next pitch was on a giant flake that at the top started to flex. with some more climbing and chimneying you gain a nice ledge. next pitch starts off straight forward but moves into a well protected crux that felt about 5.9 the next pitch is a simple but long route to the castle dome summit
Location
the route can be found by approaching castle dome via the dome trail. once at the dome head north down a narrow gully about 400-500 feet long. descend the gully to the end where it drops off suddenly and you will see a dike on your right just opposite of a big tree. that is the start of the first pitch. Descend via the SE "walk-off" don't be ashamed to rope up for descent as the exposure can be quite interesting.
Protection
a full alpine rack to 4" was fully utilized. there were no bolt anchors but the crux had two closely spaced bolts for good protection
[Hide Photo] At the top of the first pitch looking towards the second
[Hide Photo] A Direct Alternate start (80’) bypassed the original three traversing pitches before the vertical pitches to the top. Start in the gully below the Potato Chip Flake, the Direct alternate has seven…
[Hide Photo] Alternate Direct start a short way down the gully on the right below Potato Chip flake 5.9 (C1). Exit the roof left with a #1 red Camalot. The first section below the roof is setup as a short route…
[Hide Comment] Guide books do claim this route as a 5.8+ but it felt a bit more than that at the crux. But i'm sure some of the locals would disagree
Oct 30, 2014
[Hide Comment] The rock is far from perfect but this is a nice route that goes directly to the top of the dome. Worth doing. Check out Grover's book for a good topo and description.
Mar 3, 2015
[Hide Comment] Setting and position are spectacular. Climbing is good on pitch 4 & 5, which is when hikers spotted us across drainage and nicely shared pics. The route has drawbacks. All of Pitch 1 has very little pro (anchor in your belayer). On higher pitches take care to choose the cracks that would keep their shape in a fall. The down climb is involved and at trickiest spot exposed. Keep in mind rappeling or belaying, especially if first time descending summit. Fun adventure if you've got a spicy palette!
May 31, 2015
[Hide Comment] I did Cosmic Wall last week, and I was quite pleased with the quality of the rock and the climbing. Nothing to write home about, but living here in Ashland, I was chuffed to find that we had some good granite multipitch not too far away.
Yesterday, I had the displeasure of climbing this route. The NW Ridge is contrived, chossy, and all-around a poor way to spend your day. Much of the rock was crumbly and friable, especially on the Potato Chip Flake pitch. There were loose blocks on nearly every ledge. I was not personally spooked at any particular moment, but if I had had less experience in such terrain, I would have been understandably gripped. I will not speak to the PG13/R rating because I feel that is completely subjective, but I will recommend against doing this route as it was simply one of the worst I've ever done anywhere.
Luckily, we stopped off and did Six Toe Crack on the hike out...and it was great! A wonderful little flake/crack system in good granite! There is good rock out there folks, but very little of it will be found on the NW Ridge of Castle Dome.
Oct 21, 2019
Avg: 2.5 from 13
votes
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
on the list to do. thanks for posting it. Oct 30, 2014
Redmond, OR
Boulder, CO
Bend, OR
Yesterday, I had the displeasure of climbing this route. The NW Ridge is contrived, chossy, and all-around a poor way to spend your day. Much of the rock was crumbly and friable, especially on the Potato Chip Flake pitch. There were loose blocks on nearly every ledge. I was not personally spooked at any particular moment, but if I had had less experience in such terrain, I would have been understandably gripped. I will not speak to the PG13/R rating because I feel that is completely subjective, but I will recommend against doing this route as it was simply one of the worst I've ever done anywhere.
Luckily, we stopped off and did Six Toe Crack on the hike out...and it was great! A wonderful little flake/crack system in good granite! There is good rock out there folks, but very little of it will be found on the NW Ridge of Castle Dome. Oct 21, 2019