Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | K Duncan, D Humphrey 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,153 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.
P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.
P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.
- ***A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING. YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT.*** From the intermediate anchors, rap to the Levitation anchors and then to the ground. (See photos.)
Location
See photo for route and approaches.
Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.
Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.
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