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Routes in Main Crag
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2x4 Jenga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Pint of Stout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Auspicious Sunrise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Autumn Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Batteries Not Included S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bring Your Brass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cam-ouflage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conundrum (Pending FA Info) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Delicacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dragon Slayer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enigma (pending FA info) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In Search of My Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jenga T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Knob Jollies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knob Walk S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Levitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mystery (pending FA info) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plates of Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Possibilities T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quitting Time S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sandcastle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servile Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shorty's Dilemma S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Simply Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spare Rib S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Springtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squat Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Static Undercling T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swingtime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Totem Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trycams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | K Duncan, D Humphrey 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,151 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.
P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.
P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.
- ***A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING. YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT.*** From the intermediate anchors, rap to the Levitation anchors and then to the ground. (See photos.)
Location
See photo for route and approaches.
Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.
Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.
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