Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: K Duncan, D Humphrey 2014
Page Views: 1,153 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.

P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.

  • ***A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING. YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT.*** From the intermediate anchors, rap to the Levitation anchors and then to the ground. (See photos.)

Location Suggest change

See photo for route and approaches.

Approaches:
1) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind Totem Tower and across to the base of the route.
2) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
3) Scramble from the anchors atop Dragon Slayer to those on top of Springtime.

Protection Suggest change

Nine bolts and 0.75 to 2" cams for the initial crack.

Photos

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