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Giant's Direct

5.5, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 69 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Mt Hood Nationa… > French's Dome

Description

This is an alternate start to Giant's Staircase. Climb easy moves with giant holds to either the first belay anchor of Giant's Staircase, and continue up Giant's Staircase to the top, or go up and left onto the ledge with an anchor and rap rings.
This is also the start for Static Cling, 5.10b.

Location

If you are standing at the base of the steps up Giant's Staircase, walk 20' to the left and around the corner, and you will see a cleaned section with bolts going up it.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchor if only going to the first anchor. Bring 6-8 more if going to the top of the dome via Giant's Staircase.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Giant's Direct
[Hide Photo] Giant's Direct
Top roped up Giant's Direct to Giant's Staircase's 1st anchors and then led up to the 2nd set of anchors.
[Hide Photo] Top roped up Giant's Direct to Giant's Staircase's 1st anchors and then led up to the 2nd set of anchors.
Lead climbing my first time!
[Hide Photo] Lead climbing my first time!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.5
[Hide Comment] With the relocation of two bolts on the 2nd pitch to Giant's Staircase, it is now possible to go from the Giant's Direct to the top of the dome via Giant's Staircase in one pitch, since rope drag has been reduced almost in half now. Oct 19, 2014
David Shirley
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] This route is harder than Giants Staircase...not much, but if GS is a .6, this would be a .6+ (i think the book calls it a .7, which is a stretch) Apr 11, 2016
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.5
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb for kids! My 4 year old made it to the anchor easily. Jul 5, 2018