The Original Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1+
Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ben K. and Jeff W. 10/5/2014 |
Page Views: | 1,284 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Oct 6, 2014 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1:
Start up a short OW then move into a chimney with a bolt. Continue up placing gear occasionally. Place some gear in a roof over your head then look down through the notch to a ledge on the other side of the tower to find anchors. Down climb or lower the 10'. Anchor is 2 half inch bolts. 5.9, 100'.
Pitch 2:
Climb up continuing to stay on the river side to the actual notch. Clip the bolt and transfer to aid mode. 6 bolts, 3 drilled pins with the occasional gear placement and 5 bat hook holes will get you to the top. A stick clip should make it possible to skip the hooking. Anchor on top is also 2 half inch bolts. 5.9 C1+.
Descent:
One full 60m rappel to the ground.
Start up a short OW then move into a chimney with a bolt. Continue up placing gear occasionally. Place some gear in a roof over your head then look down through the notch to a ledge on the other side of the tower to find anchors. Down climb or lower the 10'. Anchor is 2 half inch bolts. 5.9, 100'.
Pitch 2:
Climb up continuing to stay on the river side to the actual notch. Clip the bolt and transfer to aid mode. 6 bolts, 3 drilled pins with the occasional gear placement and 5 bat hook holes will get you to the top. A stick clip should make it possible to skip the hooking. Anchor on top is also 2 half inch bolts. 5.9 C1+.
Descent:
One full 60m rappel to the ground.
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