The Original Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1+
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ben K. and Jeff W. 10/5/2014 |
Page Views: | 1,269 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Oct 6, 2014 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1:
Start up a short OW then move into a chimney with a bolt. Continue up placing gear occasionally. Place some gear in a roof over your head then look down through the notch to a ledge on the other side of the tower to find anchors. Down climb or lower the 10'. Anchor is 2 half inch bolts. 5.9, 100'.
Pitch 2:
Climb up continuing to stay on the river side to the actual notch. Clip the bolt and transfer to aid mode. 6 bolts, 3 drilled pins with the occasional gear placement and 5 bat hook holes will get you to the top. A stick clip should make it possible to skip the hooking. Anchor on top is also 2 half inch bolts. 5.9 C1+.
Descent:
One full 60m rappel to the ground.
Start up a short OW then move into a chimney with a bolt. Continue up placing gear occasionally. Place some gear in a roof over your head then look down through the notch to a ledge on the other side of the tower to find anchors. Down climb or lower the 10'. Anchor is 2 half inch bolts. 5.9, 100'.
Pitch 2:
Climb up continuing to stay on the river side to the actual notch. Clip the bolt and transfer to aid mode. 6 bolts, 3 drilled pins with the occasional gear placement and 5 bat hook holes will get you to the top. A stick clip should make it possible to skip the hooking. Anchor on top is also 2 half inch bolts. 5.9 C1+.
Descent:
One full 60m rappel to the ground.
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