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Routes in Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) - mixed, couloirs
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(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5 |
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Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow |
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Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow |
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Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6 |
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Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+ |
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Crystal Couloir Steep Snow |
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Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow |
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Double Dragon (Left) T M2 Mod. Snow |
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Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow |
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Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow |
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Ghost, The T WI6 M10 |
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Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13 |
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Iration T WI3+ M3-4 |
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Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5 |
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Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3 |
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North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Couloir T WI2 |
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Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5 |
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Road, The WI3 M4 |
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Shooting Star T WI7 M9 |
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Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R |
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Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- M2 Mod. Snow |
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Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow |
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Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Will Mayo, Ben Collett, October 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,555 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Oct 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the slightly harder and scarier companion piece to Silhouette (with the caveat that this route is rather conditions dependent and more ice would have made it easier).
1) Fight through the rather large roof with good gear, snag some quite thin ice to pull through the lip, and thrutch through to a bit of a rest. From here, a few feet of brutal icy offwidth take you to a chimney with a couple of fixed pins. Follow the chimney to an alcove where thin ice allows a traverse right to a tenuous smear that ends at a commodious belay with good gear below a nice dry chimney, 110 feet.
2) Exit the chimney left to a steep handcrack and follow that to easier ground. Belay at the top of the pitch, M5/6 140 feet.
1) Fight through the rather large roof with good gear, snag some quite thin ice to pull through the lip, and thrutch through to a bit of a rest. From here, a few feet of brutal icy offwidth take you to a chimney with a couple of fixed pins. Follow the chimney to an alcove where thin ice allows a traverse right to a tenuous smear that ends at a commodious belay with good gear below a nice dry chimney, 110 feet.
2) Exit the chimney left to a steep handcrack and follow that to easier ground. Belay at the top of the pitch, M5/6 140 feet.
Location
The route climbs the steep chimney system left of Silhouette. It can be accessed 3 ways. The first and probably best when conditions are appropriate is to climb Monochrome into it. Another alternative is to traverse over from the start of Silhouette. If there is not much ice on the lower part of the face, it makes sense to rap into the base with some shenanigans involved.
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