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Fat Bastard

5.10, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 15 votes
FA: Chad Watkins (2002)
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Horseshoe Canyo… > W Side > Confederate Cracks

Description

Climb a massive flake/buttress while stemming the main wall. Clip several bolts then make a committing slab step left to an undercling roof. Pull the roof, puzzle through a little more slab and then romp to the chains.

Location

On the face perpendicular/left of W.M.A. and I Fought Guppies.

Protection

9 bolts

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Fat Bastard
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Randy Von Zee
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] This is a 'king line' as far as I understand the term. I saw this from 100 yards away and knew I wanted to climb it before I was even sure there was a route here. Really interesting and a little scary climbing through the flake and the transition to the main wall. The upper half is dirty enough with lichen that it feels like no one has climbed it before (if you can forget how the bolts got there), but not so much that it is slippery, at least on a dry day. Some juggy, athletic moves at the end if you stay on the right side of the bulge, or sneak around back the left side for what I'm told is a ladder to the top. Jan 9, 2025